FASS installation

Yes it replaces your existing housing. I plugged the holes for the heator. Its supposed to have engine coolant routed trought it. Unless you run where it gets real cold you dont need it. I had trouble with mine gelling/waxing up thats half the reason I put the FASS on but it seams to be able to just push the fuel through even if it's gelled a bit. The worst part about the install is you have to drill the tanks to put a return line in.

 

I think your thinking of the wrong filter housing. The 1 on the engine with the fuel temp sender stays. You replace the housing and filters on the frame rail.

 

I installed mine right infront of the drivers side rear spring hanger and relocated the remote grease bank forward. In doing this I kept the parts list a little smaller by being able to reuse the braided fuel line that went from the factory water seperator to the fuel pump. I just had to reverse this line to clear everything perfectly. Also you will need a braided line as a return from the FASS to a brass T fitting (or better yet a "Y" block that companies like Jegs and Summit sell). From there you will need 2 equal length braided lines that run from the "T" fitting to the fuel tanks. You can install the FASS returns in line with the factory fuel returns, but it can only be done 2 way or you will increase the pressure in the factory system and hurt the fuel system. To do this you need to remove the facotry return from the tanks bung and install a pipe nipple. then install a "T" fitting with one outlet facing straight up and the other one facing the center of the truck. Use fittings to to attach the FASS return to the outlet facing the center of the truck and the engine retutn goes to the one thats straight up. This gives the engine return priority flow. Let me know if you need anymore help. I can post some pics later in the week once my truck is out of the shop.

 

Do you have pictures of how the returns look plumbed up on the tank