Guys,
Is their anymore information about tires you can teach me??? Is Yokohama a good one?? My ex friends 379, the one in my album, had two steers. I do not own my tractor but would love to learn, so any information you can feed is welcome.
KH
Wheels and Tires 22.5" Vs. 24.5"
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Blackducati750, Mar 2, 2011.
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New type of retread. Instead of flat tread plates these are molded to fit tire. I have been to the plant and seen them made pretty cool. Well the treads not the capping process.
We've had alright luck with the ones for trail.
You could probably google it. I'm on my phone now and couldn't transfer link. Basically a different type of retread. -
Most off brand will way cheaper but compounds much softer. That means way less mileage.
Good steers we run if nothing goes wrong will last 150,000 or more. But we pull them at that point regardless of tread. Our bridgestone drives go 300,000 and average 6/32's at take off then do 6-8 months on a trailer before pulled for recap around 3/32's.
Trail tires is a hodge podge of old drives, caps, and these new ring treads with a bunch of the classic R195 from national account repairs.
Tires is kinda like asking someone's politics though. Everyone is going to know the exact absolute answer. What some use well others despise (as shown by the big rubber crowd), and proper tire care and monitoring are paramount no matter what tire you run.The Challenger Thanks this. -
There may be one point some of you are missing--and that has to do with ground clearance--I run 24.5LP--I would run 22.5lp if I could(although I also ran tall 24s for years)I do think the new tire compounds and designs--have negated all the heat dissaption problems that were encountered early on in the life of 22.5 for heavy otr applications--but there are some of us w/long wheelbase Petes--along with a few others--that find ourselves having trouble w/22.5lp--for example a long pit dock--that comes out over sidewalk(and I go to alot of them)with my 24.5--My tanks are barely off the ground--in these instances--the 3+"difference in tire circumference--is the difference between-sliding my tanks on the ground or clearing it--and I'm not gonna discuss the mudflaps behind my step boxes-
just my$.02Ruthless and The Challenger Thank this. -
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Interesting thread though its old, in the US there is no point buying anything than 11r22"5 tire cuz of weight restriction,however globally 315/80r22"5 rated at 8200lb is so common and give you the best of both world.
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The circumfrance of my lo pro 124"
The circumfrance of my 11.5 129"
The lo pro takes you 4 miles less per 100 than the 11.5 with the same revolutions of the motor.
These measurements were made quickly on my 22.5 steers with the tires bearing weight. -
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The load range is what designates how much weight the tire will haul, not the size. ie. An 11/24.5 with a load range of G is rated for less weight than a low pro 22.5 with a load range of H. In a tire size one needs to specify what load range they are looking for in order to have the proper tire.
Example; I run a set back front axle, and keep my fifth wheel as far forward as possible. So I must run a load range H tire to be legal on my steer axle. The same low pro 22.5 tire, in load G it's rated for 6175 lbs at 110lbs of pressure per tire, the H is rated for 7160 lbs per tire at 120lbs of pressure. Many companies, through their own ignorance, have less pressure than what the tire specs on the side wall. If you're running a G rated tire at 95 lbs as many companies do, you can't legally scale 12000 on the steer, which means you can't scale 80,000 either, as you would be over on another axle if you didn't have 12 on the steer. The good thing for drivers though, is that most scale masters don't know this either, or there would be many more tickets issued for overweight.
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