27 HP. blew your clutch? I think not! If you are adjusting your clutch more,maybe you should take a hard look at your driving habits. You should be taking off easy,especially in the lower gears and feeding the fuel to it not mashing the pedal to the floor. If the cab is torqueing over when you are accelerating you are giving it too much fuel,too fast. I was taught act like there is an egg under the pedal and you don';t want to break it. On the power end,i'm sure Haney can get you straightened out.

Originally Posted by The Admiral

27 HP. blew your clutch? I think not! If you are adjusting your clutch more,maybe you should take a hard look at your driving habits. You should be taking off easy,especially in the lower gears and feeding the fuel to it not mashing the pedal to the floor. If the cab is torqueing over when you are accelerating you are giving it too much fuel,too fast. I was taught act like there is an egg under the pedal and you don';t want to break it. On the power end,i'm sure Haney can get you straightened out.

Thanks, Yeah I guess I may have worded it wrong, I suspect my clutch was on its way out. The Dyno tune was failing at the end I think because of it. This helped it along. The thought of pedal to the floor makes me laugh. I did however have to re-learn some habbits, I was shifting to high and not letting it lug. I have wondered if I should be going with a heavy duty clutch also.

This came to mind this morning,so a little added input. Back in the old days of the 1693TA Cats,the KTA Cummins,the 12V71 and 8V92 Detroits the transmissions of the day were 9513 & 12513 and they did the job. You just have to drive accordingly. I know people who could destroy a Sherman Tank. Worked for a guy years ago. Had an old Autocar and a new 1973 KW hood. The guy who drove the KW was lazy and hard on equipment. Autocar had a spring seat no P/S,no A/C,spring ride and a stack of springs under the front end that looked like the Sears Towers. Good old truck! Hard on the driver.The deadbeat finally got fired and i got the KW. Some time later the boss told me the reason he kept me in the Autocar as long as he did was because he knew i would make it last. I'm sure Haney will tell you the same thing,if you drive your truck easy and with respect your drive train will live.

Originally Posted by ajmb

Hi there, I want to actually like my truck for a change. I have had a poor power problem and poor MPG forever.
I pull liquid tanker tandem axle (max 80000)

Specs:

2005 Pete 379
Cat C15 475 Acert BXS18892
1650 13 speed
3:55 axle 11x22.5
I was getting 4 mpg loaded or empty or bobtail.
Here is what I have done:
Flow through mufllers
Top End set

I then did a dyno tune (here is what it wasBefore the tune)
1497 rpm Vehical speed 50

Fuel Rate: Gph 22.1
Boost: 84.6
Fuel Pressure: 87.4
Fuel Temp: 97
Air Temp: 149
Engine Hp:451
Corrected Hp: 460
Wheel Hp: 402
Inlet air restriction: 3.5

THIS IS WHAT THEY SET IT TO:
RPM 150
Fuel Rate: Gph 22.9
Boost: 90.2
Fuel Pressure: 87.3
Fuel Temp: 97
Air Temp: 154
Engine Hp:468
Corrected Hp: 477
Wheel Hp: 429
Inlet air restriction:4.2

They best I can do now is 5.3 or so loaded and 6.5 empty. I still have no power and drop gears like crazy.
Cat says they can not turn up my HP due to the trans is rated at 1650.

I want to have PDI tune it ASAP but will it be worth my time? Will I be able to with the clutch and trans set at 1650?
After I raised my hp with the dyno tune, I find I adjust my clutch more often, I even blew out my old clutch the first week. Can I expect this again with a PDI tune? Also If I go to PDI where Jerry is, Can you have imput into what file to use etc? And is it done on site there?

I would love to know ANY thoughts on this, thanks in advance
Jay

Most of the time the BXS engines will raise fuel mileage by 0.5 mpg with the PDI Stage 1 tune that I use. As you can see with your before and after dyno differences in fuel mileage, these engine respond to fuel with fuel mileage increases. I'm going to say since you've gotten it to 5.3 mpg that you get around 5.8 mpg after the tune.

The clutch failure isn't something that was caused by the Hp or torque of your current Hp rating. If I would have been replacing the clutch, I would have went with a 1850 torque clutch, there isn't much of a price difference in them to not go with the stronger clutch in my opinion, regardless of engine output. To have to do more clutch adjustments after the dyno tune with a stock file in the ECM after a FLS/FTS adjustment in power has me slightly concerned though. I would also expect your new 1650 torque rated clutch to handle the power of the PDI Stage 1 tune fine. How long has it been since you replaced the clutch? There is a usual amout of time after the clutch replacement that the clutch will have to be adjusted more often until the surfaces seat to each other. But this would stop after the first 25,000 to 30,000 miles in my opinion in normal OTR applications.

Yes, if you go to Jerry at the New Galilee PA PDI location, I will have input into exactly which file is used to tune your ECM. Yes, it will be done on site while you wait. I need to schedule it in advance to make sure it doesn't interfere with Jerry's truck show schedule. Jerry has all of the PDI displays for the truck shows at his place and travels to all the major shows in the country, so we have to work around his schedule.

can anyone help me I'm trying to get ahold of mr.haney but I can send him a message since I'm a new member

Originally Posted by Panther424

can anyone help me I'm trying to get ahold of mr.haney but I can send him a message since I'm a new member

Panther: Mr. Haney will see your post and i am certain he will PM you...

Ok thanks for the info black_dog