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  1. #1
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    Cat 3406E heating problem

    About a month my 3406e engine started to run hotter than normal. I found that the surge tank had split and system would not build pressure. I put on a new tank, pressure cap, and a new thermostat This helped but did not solve the problem. Prior to any problems, truck very seldom ran over 190*. Now it runs at 196* unloaded at road speeds, and loaded will run up to 212 on the slightest grade. When I got home today, temp was 196. Checked with laser gun: water pump was 196, thermostat housing was 195; top radiator hose was 190; bottom hose was 90. I'm thinking water pump. I removed the water pump, but can see no problem. Can a water pump go bad without leaking? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    Road Train Member bender's Avatar
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    The water pump impeller can slip on the shaft or become eroded. Have you checked your air bleed line from the engine to the surge tank to make sure it's open? Air in the water pump cavity can cause cavitation of the pump.

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  4. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by bender View Post
    The water pump impeller can slip on the shaft or become eroded. Have you checked your air bleed line from the engine to the surge tank to make sure it's open? Air in the water pump cavity can cause cavitation of the pump.
    I never thought about the impeller slipping. I have two vent lines, one from the top of the radiator to the surge tank, and one from the thermostat housing to the tank. One sprung a leak, so I replaced them both a few days ago. Is there anything i need to be aware of when filling the system as far as getting the air out?

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    Road Train Member bender's Avatar
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    The impeller might not slip until heated. The air bleeds will do all the bleeding for you when filling the system. Have you cleaned everything up front, radiator, CAC etc?

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    Thats my next task. I've been told to blow air from the engine side, and i've been told to use water. What do you think?

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    Road Train Member bender's Avatar
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    I use water but it's pressurized. You could use air then water but I would wash it well with a good detergent. Trash often gets hung up between the rad and CAC so clean and inspect it well.

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  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bender View Post
    I use water but it's pressurized. You could use air then water but I would wash it well with a good detergent.
    Thanks for your help. I will post what I find. Thanks again.

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    Road Train Member bender's Avatar
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    All the luck to ya!

  11. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bender View Post
    The water pump impeller can slip on the shaft or become eroded. Have you checked your air bleed line from the engine to the surge tank to make sure it's open? Air in the water pump cavity can cause cavitation of the pump.
    The impeller was slipping on the shaft, according to the shop guy when I carried the pump back for core credit. Also discovered that my radiator was partially clogged. But that's a whole nother story. Thanks again for the help.

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    To clean the radiator, take it to a truck wash and with soapy spray, spray it directly into the core, not at an angle, also put the fan on manual and the engine at about 1200 rpm. spray at about 6 inches from the grill and do a pattern slowly.
    You want a metal bug screen, with at least a 1/4 inch opening I prefer a 3/16 one. Those fancy plastic screens do not work.
    To check a water pump for slippage I have an adapter I put on the top heater hose out of the head and shut off the return tap and clamp the hose, deducting the rad preasure cap at 1800 RPM you should have at least 27 lbs preasure. Some will slip when cold, some when hot, You also want to change the cover plate for the water pump, if it shows any corrosion.
    Just a thought!

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