most likely it is doing a regen, does the DPF temp light come on at all when you stop? They tend to run a bit rough when they are doing a regen.

Have the same thing with my truck, same year, motor and trans. Usually every morning or after sitting for a bit but dont smell fuel. Doesnt seem to be as bad if i let it idle for about 15 min before taking off. Dont think it has anything to do with a regen. Cant get it to the shop for 2 weeks so ill have to live with it until then to find out whats going on.

No lights come on

And it still does it even if I idle for 10 minutes or so in the morning.

Ethan

At each start up cycle the engine will do a test of the aftertreatment injector fuel system and pressurize the fuel line going to the doser injector that is right behind the turbos and under the area where a/c blower box is. Chances are there is a small fuel leak and fuel is spraying somewhere there a bit. If the leak gets bad enough the engine will see it is not developing enough pressure for the doser injector and set a code, if it hasn't already. If you smell fuel, this is a serious problem due to the fire hazard and should be looked at right away. Fuel leaks aren't common, but known issues. If your truck is new enough, it may be just a loose fitting, but they normally leak at the braided flex sections. The ECM performs this test for about 15 or 20 seconds or so at start up only. Then the line is only pressurized with fuel during an active regen. The chugging during low speed acceleration is a normal characteristic of these common rail Maxxforce engines. There are ECM calibration improvements to help reduce it, but it is just they way these are. I think it sucks too!

Originally Posted by Heavyd

At each start up cycle the engine will do a test of the aftertreatment injector fuel system and pressurize the fuel line going to the doser injector that is right behind the turbos and under the area where a/c blower box is. Chances are there is a small fuel leak and fuel is spraying somewhere there a bit. If the leak gets bad enough the engine will see it is not developing enough pressure for the doser injector and set a code, if it hasn't already. If you smell fuel, this is a serious problem due to the fire hazard and should be looked at right away. Fuel leaks aren't common, but known issues. If your truck is new enough, it may be just a loose fitting, but they normally leak at the braided flex sections. The ECM performs this test for about 15 or 20 seconds or so at start up only. Then the line is only pressurized with fuel during an active regen. The chugging during low speed acceleration is a normal characteristic of these common rail Maxxforce engines. There are ECM calibration improvements to help reduce it, but it is just they way these are. I think it sucks too!

The check engine light flashes for a few seconds every time at start up, but I believe it was just a test thing. But now I realize it doesn't flash all the time. It flashes a few times and then goes out. Just every now and then.

Ethan

Here is a good description of all the dash lights and their meanings along with regen lights and instructions in case you don't have them. The yellow engine symbol comes on way too long at key on, then flashes and then goes out. This is perfectly normal, doesn't not indicate a fault. The key on bulb test sequence is just way too long. If the light comes on, then flashes a few times, then stays on solid forever, now you have problem. The "Wait to start" light, or the "coil of wire" looking light comes on too. Usually you only have to pay attention to it when the temp outside is below 50 degrees. This is your cold start assist system. When it is cold outside, you turn the key on, but do not crank. Watch the "wait to start" lamp. At key on it will be on solid. It may stay solid longer if it is colder, but once it starts to flash the engine is ready for you to crank... hopefully it starts LOL!

Originally Posted by -insert name-

Hear the truck release air a few seconds after starting up? Its testing everything as said above. I was told when I got this one, "Wait 15 seconds before you turn it over."

Yeah it does all that. I'll wait from now on.

Originally Posted by Heavyd

Here is a good description of all the dash lights and their meanings along with regen lights and instructions in case you don't have them. The yellow engine symbol comes on way too long at key on, then flashes and then goes out. This is perfectly normal, doesn't not indicate a fault. The key on bulb test sequence is just way too long. If the light comes on, then flashes a few times, then stays on solid forever, now you have problem. The "Wait to start" light, or the "coil of wire" looking light comes on too. Usually you only have to pay attention to it when the temp outside is below 50 degrees. This is your cold start assist system. When it is cold outside, you turn the key on, but do not crank. Watch the "wait to start" lamp. At key on it will be on solid. It may stay solid longer if it is colder, but once it starts to flash the engine is ready for you to crank... hopefully it starts LOL!

The auto start cranked up today, I smelt the exhaust and got out, popped the hood and checked everything. No fuel leaking, no exhaust leaks. The thing that bothers me is that all our new prostars and cascadias have the exhaust exit under the truck. I think it was regening, the smell might just be the aftermath of the dpf getting so hot.

I've never had any lights on my dash other than exhaust temps being high which is usually what pops up when I'm climbing hills.




Ethan