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- 08.07.2012 #11Light Load Member
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- Jul 2012
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- New Hampshire
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I run Bio diesel in all my stuff. From the 1999 CAT 938 loader to my 2010 CAT 420E IT backhoe. Also in my trucks from the 1994 Ford LN8000 with a Cummins 400 and in all my newest stuff. I starting having my oil guy deliver 5% bio diesel mix and after 2 years I am put to a 50% mix of bio and straight diesel. I run them all with Amsoils Cetane boot and diesel fuel additive concentrate. Around October 1st they switch it to a %20 mix and I start to at the cold flow additive then also to make sure it doesn't jell. Bio diesel will jell up much fast then diesel with no bio but if you put additive in the mix you have you will be all set. Then only problems you might have when you first start is filters plugin up because of all the junk it will break up in your lines. I would recommend starting with a 5-15% mix and then working your way up. We have had great luck and have been seeing better MPG and they say it is much better for lucubration with your motor..
I would not buy bio fuel from any guy. Make sure it is a good place making it. The guy I buy from has a contract with the state and many other places. Last I knew he was selling over 3 million gallons a month of this stuff. I wouldn't be buying this from a guy that makes it at his house. You put junk in you are going to end up with a junk truck...Last edited by NFDDJS; 08.07.2012 at 08.13 PM.
- 08.07.2012 #12
- 08.07.2012 #13Heavy Load Member
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- Jul 2012
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- Miami,FL (yeah i know :( )
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b20? whats this
also then i wouldnt have to worry about weather conditions as i live in south florida so cold wouldnt really have any clouding issues here. So i can run old engine oil with a mix of regular diesel then at the same 60/40 have to see how i can come up on old frying oil as most of it is picked up by companys who recycle, i would figure service intervals on filters would be even more frequent.
- 08.08.2012 #14Road Train Member
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- Aug 2011
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- Sunny Tampa Florida
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I worked in my family truck shop long before driving, not an expert at anything but here is what I was taught and always worked well.
5k miles change the fuel and oil filters, 10k oil change. We worked in a coal truck industry and under extreme working conditions for dust and dirt.
I asked the head mechanic about the cost of changing at 10k, it's cheaper than a motor he responded.
All the coal pit trucks had more than one million miles with less than 1% needing overhauls, we used old motor oil or what ever would burn clean as a fuel additive, keep out the moisture or antifreeze and you are good to go.
- 08.08.2012 #15Road Train Member
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- May 2011
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- Middle Tennessee
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You can burn bunker oil, engine oil, gear oil, vegetable oil, jet fuel,, kerosene, mix it any of it with propane, nitrous oxide, hydrogen.....
Have fun and experiment! What ever fires up under compression that can squirt through the nozzles should work.
Just stay away from volatile stuff like gasoline, alcohol, ether etc. Don't want pre-ignition and cracked pistons or broken rods.
- 08.08.2012 #16Medium Load Member
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- Oct 2010
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- Hillsboro, OH./ Adrian, MI
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http://www.biodiesel.org/what-is-bio...odiesel-basics
There is also information on where it is available by state if you look around.
- 08.08.2012 #17
- 08.08.2012 #18Light Load Member
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- Jul 2012
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- New Hampshire
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B20 is 20% bio diesel. That is what I run in the winter. In the summer I run B50. A 50% mix of bio diesel...
- 08.08.2012 #19
- 08.08.2012 #20Road Train Member
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- May 2011
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- Middle Tennessee
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Some please explain how a fuel with less BTU (soybean) give you better MPG.
Or is it just 'perceived' better MPG from feel good green-ness, saving planet Earth and all that gobblety gook?

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