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  1. #1
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    ser 60 gear train

    I put my ddec 3 in the shop today. it has 1.4 mil miles on it, so when I had the chance last year to get a o.e.m. detroit bull gear & bearing for $200.00 I bought it. so I figured it is a good time to replace it, since I have seen metal flakes on oil plug recently. the gear train has never been touched. can anyone think of anything else that should be replaced at this time? I have heard of cam gear, thrust, idler gear, dampner, not sure if I got the spelling correct on those. looking for opinions on what should definitely be replaced, or just looked at for too much wear.
    Last edited by heavyhaulerss; 08.17.2012 at 07.45 PM.

  2. #2
    Medium Load Member truckmechanic's Avatar
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    Inspect all of the thrust washes and gears especially the cam gear if all looks good then let it roll are you doing it or a shop doing it?its a pain not to hard bit a lot to take apart before I forget I would have the diamond seal changed while there in there aka the cam plate seal they are a common source for oil leaks and your already that far into it just my .02

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  4. #3
    Road Train Member Heavyd's Avatar
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    Yah, like tm said the main gear to worry about is the bull gear. If the rest look good I would leave them too. Now would be a good time for a water pump and new TRS and SRS timing sensors.

  5. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heavyd View Post
    Yah, like tm said the main gear to worry about is the bull gear. If the rest look good I would leave them too. Now would be a good time for a water pump and new TRS and SRS timing sensors.
    put new trs & srs in 1 month ago, found a copuple of metal strands on the magnets too. water pump, new about 1 year ago. my power steering has been whinning lately & has a stiff spot. the shop mgr said it would not cost any more labor to put the pump in, just the cost. it is in a intl coe, the labor is $1500.00 I have been with this shop for 12 years. my neighbor who does truck work, except not gear train work, told me $1500.00 is a real good deal on the labor. thanks for the advice.

  6. #5
    Bobtail Member
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    Air compressor!

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  8. #6
    Road Train Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by 60's Rock View Post
    Air compressor!
    new one 3 years ago. then a used comp head last year, when coolant was getting in the oil.

  9. #7
    SHC
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    Spoiled Rotten Brat O/O SHC's Avatar
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    Do you have the older York style A/C compressor??? With the bracket that always break bolts??? I changed mine out to the retrofit one, which saved me some money on a new A/C compressor and radiator from keeping it from falling off LOL

  10. #8
    Road Train Member Cowpie1's Avatar
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    Some have found that by replacing the crankshaft damper and putting on a Pitts Power crankshaft balancer has taken care of the a/c bracket bolts breaking. Not bad insurance as well to keep other internals from wearing faster than they should. I have always changed the damper at roughly 300,000 - 400,000 mile intervals. Might be overkill, but unless you cut a damper open and inspect it, you would never know if it is failing. Some OEM's and many high end diesel shops advise changing the damper before each 500,000 miles. They have been known to fail as low as 300,000. Hence my personal policy of changing it out after 300,000 miles. Not that expensive.

  11. #9
    Road Train Member Heavyd's Avatar
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    I haven't had the pleasure of working on too many coe. Did they flip the cab right over, or take the rad out to get access to the front?

  12. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heavyd View Post
    I haven't had the pleasure of working on too many coe. Did they flip the cab right over, or take the rad out to get access to the front?
    I don't know. I dropped off truck & left.

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