Pre lube system

I always thought that was something our trucks needed but, never looked into it. Thanks for posting, hope this takes off.

 

Probably because most folks can easily take truck engines far beyond 1 million miles without opening them up doing what they are doing now, so the cost benefit ratio of one of these is not that great.

 

I have the Auto Engine Lube that I purchased while I was building my engine, and used it to prelube before turning engine, worked great. It's very simple and easy to install, and the people are great to work with. I loved it but the accumulator split open and I pulled it off, but I'm sure they would have replaced it. It's pretty nice knowing you don't have any dry starts, and it was reasonably priced.

 

Unless an engine has set for an extended period of time, like the construction equipment analogy mentioned, I am not convinced of anything remotely called a "dry start" occurring. There is always a film of oil on all the parts from the last operation. If "dry starts" were occurring, there would be ample evidence of such in used oil sample testing. Just isn't there. When I have a iron ppm level of 17 over a 20-25,000 mile oil change interval, along with a corresponding lead level of 2ppm and tin of 1-2ppm, and chrome of 1-2ppm, one is going to be hard pressed to convince me that "dry starts" are occurring. I am convinced this is a solution in search of a problem, and makes for a great marketing tactic to get folks all worried and the need to buy it.

 

I made my own. Found a cheap Genesis lube pump for circulating hot oil in race car diffs. Thing vibrated apart but I fixed it, screws holding the pump head to the motor and the cam screws in the pump head just stripped out, I threaded for bigger screws. Mounting bracket rubber isolators tore, I put in new rubber grommets.
I put in a one way flapper valve and a 100 micron screen plus 1/4 turn ball valves to shut off engine oil galley and pump oil right from pan out a fitting I screw a hose to for no mess oil changes.

Had it 8 years now. I like having oil pressure immediately instead of waiting a second or two until full pressure fills engine. I just run motor 30 secs or a minute, depending if oil is hot or cold, so oil galleys are full and then crank engine.
Only doubt I have is CAT oil filter housing doesn't prevent backflow of oil through filter so in theory I could be pushing dirt back off the filter if I run the lube pump too long. Oil normally runs outside > in through the filter but the lube pump pushes the flow the opposite way, well actually both ways from it's point of entry in the oil galley. It flows to the head, cam, crank, turbo and also the filter the backwards way. Granted it's not much pressure. It doesn't even register on my oil pressure gauge but it sure fills up those 1 gallon jugs quick when I do oil changes.

If this pump I have ever dies I'll spend more cash and get a Varna brand pump. Or maybe a Weldon brand.

I'll try to remember to take a few pics to post.

 

Rebuilds are supposed to be prelubed, it's not that hard to do but is a one time thing. I have probably the most extreme conditions out of anyone here, and I shut the truck off until about -15 F (-25C). The key to getting oil pressure sooner is having the engine warm. My Espar engine heater puts out 17,000 BTU, equivalent of 5KW. That's a substantial amount of heat. After a couple hours the engine is ~120 F even in the most extreme cold. It builds pressure instantly, and I've never had any issues in 10+ years of doing this. Either with my current truck, my former truck (Volvo) or my dads two trucks (his current one has almost 3 million on the engine). Oil samples come back fantastic. This just isn't an issue.

 

I found some pics on my old computer from 2006 when I first installed it.
The 3rd pic, that first fitting is a ball valve (w/o the handle) and 'T' fitting I open and screw a drain hose to for oil changes, while I close the next ball valve to close off opening to engine oil galley. After the second ball valve is a 100 micron screen and a then a one way check valve. You can buy those from boiler supply companies.

 

The newer oils are so much better than they were in the 60's, and the fact that a modern engine spins at least 2 revolutions before it starts makes this unnecessary in my opinion. the older engines had a lot larger clearances that the modern engines do the older engines drained out the rod bearings and mains the newer ones do not do that. I have taken engines apart, front cover, that were run on a dyno and was amazed at the amount of oil on the gears.
I have installed prelube systems on generator sets, they put a pulse of oil preasure every so often, so when they start in an emergency situation they have oil in the system. Those engines start in full fuel and grab the load immediately. The engines also have oil and coolant heaters so they are ready.
Just a thought!