How to better mpg on Detroit 60Series?

I am glad I didn't offend you and do not mind learning something new particularily if it is good but....that sensor in the feul filter housing would only be for feul TEMP,I guess you could do like the Cat guys do and fool it a bit for about 4% more feul till your feul catchs up to the sensor setting.But I have no idea of what CODE you would be refering to?Never seen it and don't know anyone who has other than what would be installed in the engines program like any other series 60.As far as drilling the check valve goes I suppose the sound you hear different in the engine is it running a little rough especially after start up which if you screw up by only a little bit may make that even difficult at times.I'm still going to say the restrictor fitting is what needs to be modified not the check vavle they both have different purposes,but you certainly can do whatever you think works.If you can ever get any data to support what you are saying I would really like to see it.

 

Is there any way to purchase a truck with a 60 series and put it to work without spending months drilling holes into the dang thing, I am looking at 04-05 trucks with these motors and You guys are scaring the hell out of me. I am not a speed demon, I just want to work, I would rather not have problems and am a maintence freak, so I assume short of my wanting to pull a manitowoc 150 k crane assembled or wanting to cruise at 120 mph plus, I can just leave the thing alone treat it well and expect it to last, and get around 6 mpg give or take????

 

The 60 series is a very reliable engine, with adequate power in stock forum. What has been discussed here is getting a little more out of a stock engine.

If these engines were not good, then practically every major carrier in the US would not be using them.

The series 60 comes in different torque settings, which has a big difference in the pulling power.

 

Hi Guys,
In Nov last year I traded for a truck with a 12.7, S60 straight 430 HP. It got 4.5 MPG, Put on low restriction muffler, fixed a small leak in charge air system, had software update to 430/470 HP. Now it gets a whopping 5 to 5.8 MPG. I would like to try the larger turbo next. The driver who rents a space next to mine has a 470/500, S60, 12.7 that gets 6.5 to 8 MPG. His turbo appears about 30% larger than mine. My turbo has a part #23528065 and has a waste gate. His is part #23515635 and has no waste gate. DD14, or any one else, plz tell me if this would be a good part number to buy or if there is a better one. Stewart & Stevens in Houston said I would need a different cam and injectors to make a bigger turbo work, but, I do not believe them. Thanks,

Dave

 

Your friends engine is a pre '98 series 60.The non wastegated turbos are larger in size (physically) but MAY not move as much air as the one you have.If you want a bigger wastegated turbo try to order one for a 550 or 575 14ltr engine.The answer to your question about your cam and injectors would depend on how your engine was configured when it was built at the factory.S&S is an extreemly large distributor of Detroit engines and if they checked out your engine serial# they may be correct.If you read through some of the Detroit threads I have listed quite a few details to check out to do with your engine such as feul system and air intake system.

 

OK, S&S didn't want to put on a larger turbo or tell me a part number. They checked fuel pressure, said it was good. They didn't set injector timing as far as I know. The engine just sounds like it is being held back, or is straining even when it is pulling an empty trailer. My feeling was that the turbo was just too small and causing back preasure. Will look through other threads to see if I can find part # for bigger turbo. Thanks DD.

Dave

 

I do not believe you will find a turbo number on here.Your turbo should work ok but your updated program likely isn't going to be like older ones because it will have newer emmission calibrations.I'm thinking that after they checked your fuel pressure they didn't give you the numbers?You do not want any more than 65psi @1800rpm no load.(sitting in neutral).All they could do is set the injector hieghts and top end adjustment and maybe check to see if the injector codes are set correctly,changing them to some magic number really doesn't work,although there are some people that will argue that.I've tried it a number of times for different reasons in different conditions and...nothing.Try to find someone with a factory 500hp and get thier turbo number,I'll look through some build sheets to see what numbers I can come up with but it will take a few days.

 

Have you checked the coolant temperature sensor, the one that tells the computer what the engine temperature is. If this is bad the computer will adjust the settings to what temperature it THINKS the engine is, not the actual operating temperature.

This could cause major power and fuel comsumption problems. Another thing to check is the MAP sensor on the intake. This could affect power and fuel useage also.

 

I don't know that these were checked though its been in three shops. I will try to get this done today. Thanks DD and Stranger both.

Dave

 

Dave, give Michigan Turbo a call. They have several models for the DD. Mike