Where do I get a HID conversion kit for a 2007 Volvo VN780

It's been happening to me lately in mornings when it's really cold. I either turn on/off few times or just leave them on and eventually they do turn on. It takes longer the colder it is. I also hear it's a good idea to run separate wire if ur running 55w

 

Hi parahod,

If you take a look at the fault codes, you'll see that the LCM is detecting a short circuit fault. Power is being shut off to protect the system. HID ballasts require extra power at start-up to get the bulbs up to temperature. Depending on the ballast design, this may be as little as 10-20% extra, or in the case of some OE ballasts, it's more like a factor of 3, for no more than a few seconds. I'm not aware of any 55W ballasts that will work on the low beam circuit.

Keep in mind that a normal 9005 bulb is rated at 55W at 12.8V. With the undersized wire feeding the headlights, in practice the bulb is only getting around 11V--which corresponds to 41W (or 3.7 amps). A good ballast will put out the same power regardless of input voltage (within reason), so your 55W ballast would be drawing 5 amps once it's all warmed up--about 35% more than normal (not counting losses in the ballast itself). When you're trying to start the ballast, you're drawing at least 50% more power than the LCM is expecting, enough to trigger the fault. Probably not what you wanted to hear, but hopefully it makes sense.

David

 

Try those, very good product. Just plug and play. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GD...hilips+h11&dpPl=1&dpID=51g4PzjB-EL&ref=plSrch

 

Call me at 718 737 3400

 

I tried the morimoto 50w ballast in my volvo and my pete 389 and both over shocked the system to shutdown as was mentioned.

put in cnlight 35 in the volvo and she's good. no faults and lights every time.

put cnlights 50w in my pete and no issue either. cnlights uses microprocessor to regulate current draw and automatically adjusts itself somehow.

tge pete 389 usually require canbus as well as anti flicker but not with these ballasts. funny seeing as I was worried they would be cheap Chinese crap but turns out they are the biggest company in China and I'm very suprised. great prices too.

 

You don't need a 55w ballast though unless you want it for bragging rights and higher chance of melting your housing.

I have and always will run 35w. Couldnt be happier

Ive ran 35w 6k on everything the last like 12 years

 

what brand are you using.Thanks

 

Yes which kits do you use because I've installed 2 and they don't last long between the vibration and dirt .

 

Just to throw this out there. not to knock anyone.

6000k is a waste of time and money u less you drive a Honda civic, the higher up the Kelvin scale you go(Kelvin being the K in 6000k, the measurement of tempuraturw of light) the lower the lumen and lux (the measurements of light output and light that hits the road)

4300k is what all oem automakers use as it puts out the most light and any higher causes subconscious eye fatigue.

The color alone in smd's photo tells me it's a very poor quality hid kit in that truck and if he were to switch to a proper kit with the proper Kelvin rsting he would see alot better.

It's all what's important to you, if you like the look of a blue light then a cheap 6000k kit is perfect for you but if your a professional driver who's importance is usable light without blinding others as bad then take head to what I've said.

 

www.theretrofitsouce.com

35w morimoto with stand alone canbus 4300k has 5 year warranty