i am planning on replacing my egr valves and cooler myself on my 2007 ved 12 engine, since my dealership says itll be 8 days before they can do it. im pretty well mechanically inclined, so i was wondering if there were any tricks or tips when replacing them? and is there actually a egr cooler, or just the two valves? thanks in advance.
HELP- How to replace egr valves and cooler on volvo ved 12 2007-
Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by cattlerustler, Jul 30, 2012.
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and as far as the egr cooler, do i NEED to replace it as well? truck does seem to run hot often, but i figured it was the valves being stuck open doing that? rather not spend the $1000 unless i needed to. thanks
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if it's not using coolent then the cooler is fine
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No real tricks to it. Just plan on dumping your coolant before doing the work and plan on it taking awhile. Turn wheel hard left before starting because you'll need the room to get to back of engine. Volvo has engine tucked way in so be ready to go in through cab. I usually do cab side first the right side of engine working my way forward. Install from front to back. I hate climbing in and out of cab a bunch of times and rather knock it at once. Job is 6 to 8 hrs for me as trained tech so expect a bit longer for you. My time is based on changing cooler as well.
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thanks, also, what do you mean by "go through the cab" ? do i have to? or can i get to it from the engine bay?? do you happen to have pictures of changing them or know where i can get pics/diagrams? thanks again. -
while you're at it, shut off the EGR's from your engine....this way your engine will run cooler, last longer between oil changes, and not use up your EGR valves. mine have been in the truck for almost 2 yrs now.
Todarktone Thanks this. -
here's how to do it: on the D12, the EGR gases come across the top of the valve cover via a metal tube that then transitions into a silicone one. we placed a metal plug into the metal tube and welded it shut by where the 2 tubes connect. basically a piece of flat sheet about 3in square, welded onto the tube to close the opening, and then ground down around the edges to make it smooth. the EGR's will still function (opening and closing) but no gasses will be flowing over them and back into your engine. I just replaced my 1st EGR valve since doing this (it's been 19 months now) and the second one is still in there as well....hoping to get 2 years out of it!!
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How about just getting the tune to shut them off forever
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tune is what?....$200-400 welded in plug...$25
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Tune is correct way to go, weld in plug is asking for trouble.
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