problems with clutch help

how expensive is the 2 part replacement clutch brake, especially as compared to 1 part replacement? I think I snapped the tabs locking to the shaft off. I assume that means I'll need a 2 part replacement clutch brake? Thanks

 

I shouldn't take more than a hour to replace clutch brake. As to OP Volvo is using Solo clutches that work well with hydrologic clutches. The only problem is that after couple of years self adjusting mechanism seizes, and there is nothing that can be done. Even thou clutch is still good, you have to replace it

 

If you have a solo clutch ..make sure the truck is off..then press the clutch in five times ....that should adjust the clutch to the next best position...then crank truck to see if the problem is gone

 

I have a '16 model KW T680. Almost to the day, at one year of service and just over 120,000 miles the hydraulic clutch started acting up. The clutch pedal would sink to the floor with no resistance. To make a long story shorter, it eventually had to be pumped up to work. Sometimes a couple of dozen times before the clutch would disengage. This went on about 7 weeks while i researched the problem. Truck has a solo clutch, no one will touch it. KW shop refused to look at it, they told me to have it towed when the clutch died and they would replace the clutch.
Researched online and discovered it is a very common problem in any kind of vehicle with a hydraulic clutch. Lots and lots of theories out there. Vapor lock, broken springs, collapsed plunger, bad seals etc., etc. Not one single answer anywhere. I could not find one follow up where a good permanent repair had been made.
Anyway, it's now fixed and it's a permanent repair that only cost $8.00. I bought a quart bottle of Lucas engine oil stop leak. Not power steering stop leak or lucas oil additive but "Lucas engine oil stop leak".
The clutch fluid reservoir was still full, no fluid had been leaking so siphoned out only enough fluid to bring the oil down to the "Add Fluid" mark. Then i refilled it to the full mark with engine oil stop leak. The stop leak is clear colored, it looks just like clear clutch fluid. Pumped the clutch about a hundred times to mix the additive in and noticed the clutch working better immediatly.
The next morning, the pedal slowly sunk to the floor one time. In a couple of hours of driving, it stopped having any problems. Since then it has worked fine, no more problem and i'm considering it fixed permanently.
So, i know other people have been searching for an answer. This worked for me.