Hard starting after sitting a week or two

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by ICPete, Sep 5, 2014.

  1. ICPete

    ICPete Bobtail Member

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    I have a 2000 VNL770 with Detroit S60 12.7L 430/470HP engine.
    When it sits for about a week or two, then I try to start it, the engine catches and runs for a second or two, then just cranks. It cranks plenty fast but is clearly not getting fuel.
    Giving it a shot of ether will get it started at that point.
    The first time this happened (a week after I bought it), I took it to the local Mack dealer and they said a valve was leaking in the fuel system, and replaced it (part no. 25158374, $43.58; "Fuel Return Line Splitter Valve"). About a week later it started fine. Then it sat for yet another week, and today when I tried to start it, the same problem returned, and I had to use a shot of ether.
    Should I bring it back and complain that the problem hasn't been fixed?
    Is there another check valve involved that could be the problem?
    Any other tree I should be barking up?
    Getting this fixed matters because I'll be using this truck to haul my fifth wheel RV, and the standard pattern will involve it sitting in one place for a couple of months at a time, between trips moving from RV park to RV park. It would be nice if it would start even after sitting a month or two. Is it realistic to expect that?

    Pete
     
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  3. xsetra

    xsetra Road Train Member

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    Most garages I have been to will just say "they fixed the problem, now you came in here with a different problem" part of the system, you pay for their laborers(mechanics) to learn.
    You might try to install an electronic fuel pump, when you key on let it run for about 15 seconds to prime the system and crank away. Ether can kill your motor.
     
  4. RebelYeller5

    RebelYeller5 Light Load Member

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    "Intermittent" problems like yours are the WORST. Have you ever heard the famous line "cannot duplicate concern"? Or you'll find there's a group of mechanics that will guess at the problem and throw new parts at your truck like crazy. Like they're firing a scatter-gun of parts at your truck and hopefully part of the blast will hit the problem and fix it. My recommendation, sell your truck to someone that uses it more frequently and put yourself into another one. Expensive? Yes, but your only other option is to keep taking your truck to the shop and literarily pray for a miracle. I will bet you money at some point, somebody will want to replace your batteries....even if they test OK, they'll STILL try to convince you to replace them anyway quoting some mumbo jumbo about voltages and currents....you can't win this game.
     
  5. ICPete

    ICPete Bobtail Member

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    xsetra: My earlier truck, a Silverado 2500HD Duramax, had gotten a lift pump installed, the Air Dog, that does just that; circulates fuel from the tank, through filters and an air separator, then back to the tank, and maintaining about 10 PSI to the engine. I believe the whole purpose of that was to maintain an adequate supply of fuel to the high pressure fuel pump, rather than relying on the in-tank pump alone. I don't know enough about my Volvo VNL yet to know whether it even has an electric pump somewhere between the tank and the engine's high pressure pump. I do hear something start to click when I turn on the key, and had assumed that was a fuel pump. If so, I don't see how a leaking valve would prevent fuel getting to the engine when it is time to start up. Maybe the electric pump is not working well...

    RebelYeller5: Exactly -- the shop will never be able to duplicate the problem, because it will not have sat for a week or more once it is at their shop (I don't think I want to leave it there for a week to try this). The shop service manager, in fact, was the one who suggested I use ether to get it started, to bring it over to them! Your suggestion to get another truck may be my best bet at this point...
     
  6. Arnellday

    Arnellday Bobtail Member

    Don't use the either. My s60 did this too. For less than $100, I fixed it myself. There's a check valve that went bad. Located center of the engine top side in the back, firewall area. I accessed it inside the cab no problem and it took about an hour. It looks like a 3/4 or 5/8 coupling. There's a little ball inside this valve and sometimes trash get in there causing you to loose fuel prime when engine is not running. Follow your fuel line and you'll see it. Or take it to a shop and ask them to replace the fuel check valve.
    A friend and myself had this same problem at the same time. I replaced the fuel check valve and no more issues. Most satisfying repair I ever did. My friend, well he kept on with the either and he had to buy another truck because he messed up his engine to put it mildly. Haven't read all the posts, so forgive me if I'm repeating.
     
  7. ICPete

    ICPete Bobtail Member

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    Arnellday: I think you've hit the nail on the head. Although the local shop talked about a check valve, what they actually replaced is called a "fuel return line splitter valve"; I'm not sure but perhaps it is not the same thing? Plus I am pretty sure they did NOT remove the doghouse inside the cab, so probably they couldn't possibly have gained access to the check valve at the rear of the head. I'll inspect that check valve by removing the doghouse; I can remove it and see if it's functioning or is gummed up. I guess it's a cheap enough part I'll just replace it once it's removed.
     
  8. tsavory

    tsavory Road Train Member

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    Try what arnellday said plus just for fun of ot replace the fuel filter and water separator. My cat would loss prime off and on changed fuel filter and not happened since. No clue why or how that fixed it just did.
     
  9. snowwy

    snowwy Road Train Member

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    ether didn't mess up the truck. something else happend.

    i use ether all the time. for 15 years now. on my 73 chev. i'll squirt in bursts till engine runs on it own. no problems what so ever.

    i wouldn't do that with the old formula back in the day though. now that stuff was nasty.

    if the truck didn't come stock with a fuel pump. be a good idea to install one. fuel lines tend to drain back, and dry out. when not in use. unless there's a working electric pump. you're going to be doing some cranking.
     
  10. Exiled

    Exiled Light Load Member

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    I ' similar problem , when I applied either, it will run a few second then shut off
     
  11. tsavory

    tsavory Road Train Member

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    Biggest thing with either and diesel is it revs the engine to high to fast and can really mess things up. When I have a problem and HAVE to us it it is very little at a time. Micro bursts. First with about 2 seconds and sit for about 5 seconds before cranking then as cranking very short bursts it will fire and start to die one split second from a distance not straight into it just as it bogs down do this a few times.
    Key is not to spray a steam straight into intake pull back about 6 inches and very short bursts to avoid over reving and causing damage.
     
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