2008 d13 water pump housing

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by cainekh, Apr 19, 2015.

  1. cainekh

    cainekh Bobtail Member

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    Nov 23, 2012
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    Hi I have a coolant leak between the block and the water pump housing. Not the water pump but the water pump housing. There are 2 bolts 1/4 inch away from the harmonic balancer. Is the only way to remove this housing to remove the harmonic balancer? Are there holes in the balancer to allow these to be removed? Pictures attached.
    WP_20150418_20_25_22_Pro.jpg WP_20150418_20_26_06_Pro.jpg
     
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  3. benrab

    benrab Medium Load Member

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    Apr 5, 2015
    Quebec ,Canada
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    Hi,I know exactly what you are talking about. . . . . you have to remove the damper but depends of the milage of your truck often the pulley and the damper itself come rusty on the crank and are pretty hard to remove from there, up to now we have to removed the cooling package to do the job.

    Also on the Volvo engine crankshaft it's possible to have multiple crankshaft holes then some are not used, pay attention to reinstall the bolts on the original holes.
    Ben
     
    cainekh Thanks this.
  4. cainekh

    cainekh Bobtail Member

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    Nov 23, 2012
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    Thanks for the info Ben, I was afraid someone was going to tell me that dampener needs to come off. When you say "cooling package" is that radiator, fan, intercooler? My guess is this dampener is going to be wielded on with rust. Are there any special tools I need to remove the damper/pulley? I heard using a hammer to break it loose will destroy the dampener.
     
  5. cainekh

    cainekh Bobtail Member

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    Nov 23, 2012
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    There is a 1/8" - 1/16" space/gap between the water pump housing and block/oil cooler. It seems like it should be flush?
    View attachment 82687

    There is a rectangle gasket. It was installed two weeks ago by a suspect mechanic and started leaking again. How do you properly install this gasket? Can it be installed with the water pump housing in place?
    View attachment 82682 View attachment 82683 View attachment 82684
     
  6. benrab

    benrab Medium Load Member

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    Apr 5, 2015
    Quebec ,Canada
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    Sorry i cannot open your attachement, when i say cooling package it means Radiator,air to air and A/C condenser, to remove the rusty pulley and damper i recommand you remove all bolts in the nest of the pulley use a good loose nut (The best that i know is called (Moovit sell by Snap-on tools) apply Moovit on all surfaces between pulley and damper and also between damper and crankshaft flange, use a air operated Zip Gun with a flat punch and hit the pulley between holes, stop apply Moovit and do it and again with the Zip Gun Good luck. . . .
    About your leak i saw two times a leak in this area but the problem was the impeller of the water pump loose is press fit on the shaft and the impelller go backward and rubbs the rear housing up to make a thinny hole in the casting and generate a leak. . .
    Let me know what you will find ?
    Ben
     
  7. KW Cajun

    KW Cajun Road Train Member

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    Apr 12, 2013
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    FYI.... regarding bad attachments.
    On occasion the pic uploading, using the normal post/reply function fails to attach the pic correctly.
    If you use the "Go Advanced" button, rather than the "Post Quick Reply", and perform the pic inserting (via Insert Image box in upper menu bar), it goes much better.
     
    cainekh Thanks this.
  8. cainekh

    cainekh Bobtail Member

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    Nov 23, 2012
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    Hi Ben. I did manage to disconnect the fan and removed all of the dampener bolts. But I was never able to remove the dampner / harmonic balancer. I used a pry bar and tapped on it with a hammer. Can a pulley puller be used on this thing maybe?

    I loosened the bottom water pump housing bolts as much as space would allow and that created enough space to remove the big square gasket.

    The gasket I removed (only one week old) had swelled in size and was definitely the cause of the coolant leak. I believe this was caused by the injector cups and diesel in the coolant. After washing the gasket and letting it sit over night it still smelled like diesel. Apparently rubber will absorb diesel and cause it to swell and expand.

    There is still a small gap between the water pump housing and the block. That has me a little worried. But the rectangle gasket that goes between the 2 is about 3/4" thick. So I'm guessing it was designed that way??? The rest of the water pump housing is completely flush.
    View attachment 82777 View attachment 82778 View attachment 82779 View attachment 82780 View attachment 82781
     
  9. benrab

    benrab Medium Load Member

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    Apr 5, 2015
    Quebec ,Canada
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    Hi, I understand it's not a easy job (up to now we used air operated Zip GUn to break the rust), about your gasket base on the picture i agree with you the rubber look very smooth cause by diesel fuel, is the source of Diesel in coolant is fix ?

    Also if it possible take a picture of your thermostat by-pass housing (already removed), there is a little clue around this, because the new sealing ring have change and base on the model of your housing i will have an advice for you may be. . .
    Ben
     
    Vernonlogging Thanks this.
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