8.9
By the time we got back to the barn it was exactly 7.8
When I pulled up the numbers on it, it was 7.8 lifetime at 377K miles lol
Loads were 76K gross and 72K gross. Through the communist state and Arizona so yes there were hills.
BUT
The cruise was f/u, I think I can crack 8 with it.
Old Trucks
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by farmerjohn64, Jul 22, 2020.
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Even if you do replace everything mechanical that keeps it rolling down the road , which the list is long , there is still a list of things that can go wrong.
Heater and a/c system , fans ,window regulators , door latches, wipers. Washers. Wiring.lovesthedrive, farmerjohn64 and Rideandrepair Thank this. -
Rideandrepair Thanks this.
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Assuming 100k per year. $16,668 per yr. New Truck will deprecate more than that in a yr. Not to mention the big payment, higher insurance etc. But it’s a write off! So is fuel and repairs. The real advantage is fuel costs. It won’t stay low like now forever. But in short, $1400+ per mo. helps make the pymt. With less maintenance, being a newer Truck, being more productive. But eventually the maintenance creeps up also. It can get tough, paying the last year or two, with increased maintenance costs. You can either or trade it out, sometimes barely getting out of it for what’s owed, or tough it out, keeping it even longer to justify money spent on repairs. Either way, it takes a long time to get ahead of the game. No easy way around the cost.
Swine hauler, farmerjohn64, D.Tibbitt and 1 other person Thank this. -
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WesternPlains Thanks this.
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As much as I would like to hang some big air cleaners and cab side exhaust i can’t see giving up the little bit of aerodynamic advantage I already have with a BrickRideandrepair, lovesthedrive and farmerjohn64 Thank this.
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