Cracked head (intake) but 2 different stories from 2 different mechanics !

Let me state it differently.

The warranty is for the work done by mechanic A and transferred with the truck from the dealer to the OP. The dealer is selling the truck as is and washed it hands when the truck sold. The recourse is go back to Mechanic A, not the dealer.

So the short story is the OP can’t return the truck and get his money back.

 

How can yo

u do that and not damage the compressor, plus it’s located in a very hard area to get to

 

You can simply disconnect the braided steel Line. The compressor will just pump air into the atmosphere. Taking the load off of compressor head. If you want to be more thorough, you can crimp or loop coolant lines. Only run for a short time without coolant flowing through. 30 seconds should be plenty of time.

 

2016 Freightliner cascades 650k miles bought new,, I’ll try all that Thursday and let ya know...

 

Well ran combustion gas emission tester on coolant reservoir tonight did not change colors from blue - to me that’s hopeful it’s not a head , I’m really thinking this is the air compressor will try and isolate that tomorrow...... saga continues

 

I’ve heard mixed results on those test kits. Mainly that they work well on gasoline engines. Not so great on Diesels. I’ve never used one myself. I’m not a Mechanic either. Just my Own experience with 12.7s.

 

You already know it’s making pressure. But the way Shops check it, is with a coolant pressure test kit. You can borrow one from Oreilly’s or Autozone. Put the kit on in place of radiator cap, pump it up to 10-15lbs. Let it set a few minutes, see if it holds pressure. Leave it hooked up and start Truck. See if it builds pressure. If a head or head gaskets bad on Engine or compressor, it will build quickly, and just keep going higher. I don’t know how high the gauge goes. I’m guessing a bad compressor would run it up to 130. A bad engine head or gasket will build up forever. Might be able to watch the gauge with and without the SS line hooked up on compressor. A bubble test shows the same thing though. Bubbles would be less or non existent, with SS line disconnected, if compressors bad. Just be sure to pump brakes down before taking SS line off, so it’s not under pressure. That could be dangerous. You can always crimp off the coolant lines, just to be 100% sure it’s isolated. I really don’t think it’s necessary, once the SS lines off, pressures relieved.

 

Give it a shot tomorrow, will update ....

I had a plastic air line small on air dryer took that off and didn’t see any change

ps air psi gauges are up about 137 seems high.. used to be 110~~

bubbles start in bottle just as soon as I start,, even after totally bleeding air...

so much pressure from some #### where

will see tomorrow

 

See high gauges air