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The only issue I can think of with the front curtain would be loading a pickup front bottom. I pull them in just far enough to get the door to clear the post. If the truck isn't a monster, you can let the top middle post down a little before loading and that will bring the front post more vertical and then you can get the door open while leaving the truck farther back.

 

I may have to change how I load with certain loads and pull the curtain down, but generally I probably won’t drive a pickup in the belly with the loads I normally haul now. One of the drivers I load with daily that uses a curtain drives a Highlander in the belly short of the curtain and backs a Tundra on the hump and another Highlander on the back bottom and gets the height down. My rig now I can pull the curtain down in about 5 minutes and if the need arises on the new trailer I can do the same. Thanks for the tips, I have been calling every experienced carhauler I know who has an 80 ft to get their input. I probably won’t get as productive as possible with it for a little while.

 

I tend to change my mind Bob so I could eventually get the larger rock guards. One of my friends who has owned 2 80’s told me the newest one which has the more durable looking hard plastic one seems to be better than the first one which looked less durable. Most of those that I have seen are torn and bent. He also said he uses the overlift pulling in and out of many places and I probably would take his advice if I get them.

 

I don’t have a good picture of his new guards, but these in the picture are similar to his first ones. The material for the new ones reminds me of what they use for half fenders on some tractors. It’s more of a thicker hard plastic. You may have what I am referring to since your rig is nearly new.

 

I always preferred a high rail trailer and was hesitant to buy the 80ft quickloader when it became available. Now, you couldn't give me a high rail. There are times when it would be beneficial, especially on multiple drop loads, but I think you'll be very happy with that new trailer.

 

On my truck I have the fold down extensions for loading behind the cab but I don't need them to load. Tha top of my trailer extends far enough to sit on the tractor to load. You might check to see before wasting your money welding those aluminum flippers and stands on your headrack.

 

I really didn’t give it a serious thought until recently. Many of my co workers have been telling me I should get an 80’ for a couple years now but I didn’t mind my Hi Rail. I planned on buying a new pickup truck with the money, but I probably won’t buy one until supply goes back up and the prices drop. So I may as well spend the money on a trailer. Two very seasoned carhaulers who know me well have both said I will work 2-4 hours a week less doing the same 8 loads I haul. If I don’t haul an extra car I will be happy, but I probably will eventually haul 2-4 extra a week.

 

My truck has the metal ones but our shop has been replacing bent ones with the plastic ones. Apparently they’re much cheaper and pretty durable. I think you’ll really like the 80’er. I love mine!

 

I wonder if it has to do with the wheelbase on your tractor. My trailer won’t reach without the flippers. By this I mean maybe you have a shorter stinger to keep the whole unit at a specific length.?

 

I will find out for sure next week when I go to the dealer I likely will order from. My friend has a daycab Pete the same year and very likely the same wheelbase as I mine. He ordered his originally as a 75 quickloader and it came with a 14”fixed porch on it. He didn’t have to change anything when he got the longer trailer. He does not ever slide the 5th wheel anymore and keeps his all the way back. That’s what I plan to do with mine as I don’t want to slide the 5th wheel forward to load.