The last thing I want is an "Ether Baby" so I hate using it on any of my equipment unless it's just for testing purposes. I would much rather plug it in 24 hours ahead of time.
It was 35° this morning but being plugged in, the engine was warm. Cranked over nice and did the same thing. Started and then sputtered out and died. Put more fuel into the housing and it drew down again while cranking. So far, that makes about 2 gallons I've fed into the system to try and bleed the air out. Seeing the size of the lines, 2 gallons should be plenty to bleed the system, shouldn't it?
I was thinking crank sensor, but then it wouldn't even start. Correct?
ECM fuse? Again, it wouldn't start. Correct?
Fuel solenoid? It's a new one but that doesn't mean it would be bad. It is getting full voltage but maybe dropping out?
Supply lines? But then the filter housing wouldn't stay steady at 1/4 up the filter housing, would it? It would be sucking air I would think
Antifreeze and motor oil is full.
Doing the Youtube research and found a few things. Any ideas (or test procedures) would be great.
Parked it and now, no start
Discussion in 'Freightliner Forum' started by dajain, Oct 19, 2022.
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Do you have a way to put air pressure in a fuel tank?
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And, the several times I have tried to start it, sometimes it will fire and most times it will not.
I know I started with air in the system but this seems like the injectors are not getting the signal to fire.
I'll keep trying to bleed the system and looking things over.
Like I said, I would think 2 gallons would be enough to bleed that system. It sure is a long way of filling the tanks thru the return line. lol -
You should have a vent hose on the back side of your tanks. Blow with your mouth and see if air will go through. If so, then you need two vice grips and a blow nozzle.
Clamp one side off, then apply air to the other, then clamp off. From the info you posted. I would take the cap off the fuel bowl. Sounds like the suction line went dry. -
You don't need to fab anything to blow air in tanks. Just a blower stuck in tank and hold a rag around it. Don't need much pressure
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Vent line could be plugged. To pressurize tanks, just take an air hose, and a rag to block it off. Blow air into tank, while someone cranks it. Doesn’t take much psi. to push the fuel. Maybe 5 lbs. probably only 3, 7 at most. I used a mini compressor, plugged into my cigarette lighter. Cut the end off, attached it to drivers vent nipple, crimped other tank vent off. Takes a while, but it works. Don’t put too much pressure, make sure it’s bled off before taking fuel cap off, it’ll be under pressure, and very dangerous, even at 7 lbs. If you hear the fuel caps click loudly while airing it up, you’ve probably got too much pressure. Disconnect the vents, letting it bleed the air out. I had to crack the fuel line at the filter, and let all the air bleed out.
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Thank you very much! This worked and the truck is now running again.
I went out and measured the fuel in both tanks.
The left had 10" of fuel in it and the right had 19" of fuel in it.
Blocked off the right vent and put air to the left tank. Nothing but air to the filter housing.
Opened/vented the left tank and applied air to the right tank. Once fuel started to come from the filter housing, I tried the truck and with a much shorter crank, she started up and stayed running.
After running, I measured the tanks again and the left now has 12" of fuel in it.
Thanks for everything guys! Still can't believe that little side slope caused all this headache.
One thing I noticed, this truck does not have the selector valve between the tanks. Constant feed from both tanksCrude Truckin', 062 and ducnut Thank this. -
Air in the fuel system can be a royal PITA to overcome. Every shop I’ve been in has had a fuel cap with an air fitting, for this exact reason.
So glad you got it running, so you can get back to work.Crude Truckin' and dajain Thank this. -
The cost of 100 motel rooms and I break even on the cost of buying it.
Here is what she's replacing. The old ford is up for sale if anyone is interested. She is a rust free, 1969 Ford N-750 with the original 391 Industrial gasser and yes, the split rear does work. hahaOxbow, God prefers Diesels, IH Truck Guy and 1 other person Thank this.
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