That's what you are talking about... I have one of those... Use it for checking fuses when it's dark and I forget to recharge my headlamp... Thanks for the reminder...
What wires are you wanting me to check? We are still talking about just the 7 way correct?
It was suggested that I buy a 7 way tester and plug it into the trailer then plug my cord into it... See if it lights up..
If it does... Then my truck is good and the chassis is trash..
Sound about right to you? I know they are like $50 but if that's concrete proof that it's not my equipment causing me the issues than it's much easier for me to be able to reject loads and it not be my issue.
Mostly do fedex and jb hunt so they aren't that bad to work with overall but just started pulling for kllm and we don't have a "relationship" with them... And most of the time with pool chassis... Once it leaves the rail... I'm personally responsible for roadside costs for it.... Which is why I like jb and fedex because they take care of their own stuff...
Need assistance.. Electrical issues 2007 Volvo VNL
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by TCF, Apr 18, 2023.
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Ive never used the 7 way tester before so i cant comment on how it works... You can do the same thing as that tester , with the test light.. Just clamp to a good ground. Like the shock bolt or fuel tank straps bolt. and then stick the probe into the truck plug brake light probe and see if it lights up.. The brake lights are on the bottom.. This how plug is routed. Brake lights are the red. Green and yellow is left and right turn signal.. Blue is abs. Black and black(should be brown on right but i dont have brown color of photo editor) is marker/clearence lights. White up top is ground....see picture below
Use your test light to probe the bottom pin on the plug and if it lights up then the brake lights are working properly on your truck... If that is the case then plug in the cord to truck side of plug then use test light to probe the trailer side of cord... If this works then the cord is good... Plug into trailer and see if the brake lights work on trailer. If not then the problem is on trailer side .Rideandrepair and TCF Thank this. -
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Yes, smack that light controller into your palm and see if the lights do anything. Old analog controllers get goofy. Don't assume because it's new that everything is digital (circuits & transistors).
When you say grease... a non conductive dielectric type grease i hope?
Exactly! And no amount of testing will find faults/taps/shorts in that system until that connection is stressed to the point of disconnect. Analog/Direct current has many advantages with continuity being chief.
We used to throw Nurse calls () away in hospitals because they are near impossible to find a fault in with an oscilloscope unless another tech was flexing the exact spot in the wire that was causing the intermittent disconnect. Once the call system detected that disconnect it reported and had to be reset.
Continuity and voltages are therefore moot. The ONLY way i have ever discovered to quickly diagnose shorts/taps is to use an old school telco toner and wand. Get the wand with an earphone jack (more accurate). When you tone out each wire, assuming they are the same gauge/length and dont feed to other branches, the tone should sound very similar. When you have a sketchy connection/tap, you will hear the difference instantly.
I'm not saying go buy this or it's going to fix your issue. You have every right to be agitated. Electrical problem can be very time/$$$ consuming.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-Networks-26000900-Pro3000-Generator/dp/B000FTADX0?th=1
That one doesn't have headphone jack.
Sorry i couldn't be more of a help.Rideandrepair, D.Tibbitt and TCF Thank this. -
I use this for grease... Works wonders...
I think I get what you are saying and it kind of makes sense to me? Except the part about feeding into other branches?
The 7way wire plugs into another spot that has connectors that plug into another spot that plug into other connectors.... So wouldn't that mess up the process?
And I'm not sure "more helpful" is a thing?
This isn't reddit so any response with any ideas even if they don't work are technically helpful at least to me...
Half the responses were check the lines and fues and relay.... And I did all that before I even posted... But not everyone knows to do that since I see posts of people asking where the fuses are...
So for me... I appreciate the response and the ideas..Attached Files:
Rideandrepair and 2Tap Thank this. -
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It’s likely that the pins in the trailer connection have slightly collapsed and need to be spread out.
This is very common on RGNs when your hooking and unhooking multiple times a day etc.
If you get another chassis that the brake lights aren’t working or dim take a small flat blade screwdriver and stick it in the end of each pin and it will slightly spread it back out so it makes good connection again.
See the slit in the end of the pins in photo.D.Tibbitt, Rideandrepair, BoxCarKidd and 2 others Thank this.
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