michelin makes nice ones but very pricey. Grand apiece maybe. Tire wise the bill wouldn’t be much different from 8 295/75’s. Those wheels might be expensive though. Another couple grand easy for 4 of them. Could sell your old wheels to recoup some of that. If they’re all Alcoa’s somebody’d probably give you $1000 easy on FB Marketplace.
Pullin with the dreaded PACCAR Mx13
Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by RushmoreTrucker, Nov 4, 2025.
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Better add Oregon to that list.RushmoreTrucker Thanks this.
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Different grades of diesel. Their premium summer fuel is either XD grade fuel or it could just be regular X clear diesel with additives (similar to Roadmaster at Cenex). For what it’s worth, a 7500 gallon load of Roadmaster XL or Ruby Fieldmaster (dyed) has about 5 gallons of additive in it. You can decide if the extra cost is worth it or not.
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I’m not really qualified to determine that, but I know Kwik Trip charges a 15 cent premium over the standard stuff so pretty irrelevant price difference. Cenex doesn’t charge much extra for Roadmaster either so I put those both in the “can’t hurt but may help” category.
what is “X” and “XD”? That must be some fuel rack slang I’ve never heard before. What would #1 fuel be? -
X grade is just your every day fuel that most places sell. D grade is higher cetane than X. Some places will put additive into a load of X grade for their premium fuel, some will load a full load of D grade with no additive. Y grade is #1 fuel.
Brandonpdx Thanks this. -
15 cents per gallon is $1125 per 7500 gallon load. This is a load of Fieldmaster (dyed) that I hauled and it has 4.273 gallons of Cenex’s additive package in it.
Tug Toy and RushmoreTrucker Thank this. -
If you’re bored and want to nerd out on some fuel info.
https://edge.sitecorecloud.io/oneokinc1-oneok-prod-d654/media/Files/Magellan/Pipeline-Product-Specs/X-XHO-TB-TCGrades-of-2-Ultra-Low-Sulfur-Diesel-Fuel-Specifications-01012023v2.pdf?sc_lang=en
https://edge.sitecorecloud.io/oneok...2-Ultra-Low-Sulfur-Diesel-Fuel-01012021v2.pdf
https://edge.sitecorecloud.io/oneok...l-Fuel-Specifications-11012025.pdf?sc_lang=enTug Toy, Brandonpdx and RushmoreTrucker Thank this. -
Additive 's or ''winter'' fuel, are mixed with,
clear stove or
kerosene
The stations can get premixed or blend it them self.
Some trucking companies that run the far north only order clear stove in the winter,
Clear just means non dyed.RushmoreTrucker Thanks this. -
What do you fellas think of super single drives and carrying a spare? I'm eyeing Michelin X One line Grip Ds. I'll take anything that lowers tractor weight for the same or better fuel economy. But thinking about it, carrying a spare might just eliminate a bunch of the weight savings. I'm not certain I'll carry a spare. Tractor has room in various places for it, though.
I also plan on eventually adding some aero stuff to the tractor. If it ended up weight neutral with the side skirts added and flow below etc and got better mileage, I'd be real happy. My truck is less aerodynamic than your average T680 Next Gen because of its funky configuration.
As you can see, no side skirts, it only goes far enough for the steps. I was told this was to save weight.
I've got more trailer gap than I realized, I guess. Perhaps these measures are extreme since I'm doing fine anyways, but I'm gonna have to replace the tires either way and it's a fine excuse to go in and make sure the axles' hubs are sealed and greased right when I replace the wheels. Wouldn't be the end of the world if I kept the whole set as some kind of spare either but I'd probably sell the wheels and trade in the tires to become retreads.
I can't figure out how to get those lights on the sides facing the load to turn on, and I don't use em anyways, so I'll probably uninstall em. Currently they're just very small airbrakes.
Having had my first slip and slide, I've determined it's best to replace this set of drive tires earlier than anticipated with something grippier. I've got Toyo M920As with like 7-8/32nds right now. Of course I recovered from the slip and slide (near empty trailer, patch of ice, wind gusts, yippeee) and it'd probably be better if I was loaded to 60-79,000lbs instead of being down at like 30ish but still.
I wish I lived in a world where it was economically viable to just go out and spec then buy a NEW truck and still net a bunch while paying it off. Or, at least, a world where it isn't quite this risky. I probably would've done something pretty similar to this truck, but it would've kept side skirts, had a few other changes. Would've been a 510/1850 from the start. Perhaps a 13 or even 18 speed manual instead of a 12 speed auto. If I want to do tanker with this truck at any point in the future, as far as I understand it's best to run the truck with the transmission in manual mode so it doesn't keep shifting due to liquid surge. But maybe it'd be just fine. -
They actually offer 18 speed autos now along with the 12. That would be slick if it was fully unlocked and would let you shift it and hold gears the same way you would a stick shift. Left to their own programming they will do some undesirable behaviors. I've never tried a 12 but I've been told by a fella who's driven both they are far better than the old 10's. I'm a 3 pedal guy myself so I'd still go that way on a truck I was ordering new. Like having manual control of that clutch. Only having control of it through the throttle can cause some hiccups and rookie appearing movements from outside the truck.
It could be possible to turn it up, however a dealer might not want to if any of the other components behind the engine aren't rated for 1850. You'd want to do your own research on that and not take what any of the service advisor bozos tell you as the truth. Some of them know what they are talking about and some don't. Possibly somebody in customer service at Kenworth corporate could be reached by email and give a real answer on that.
I wouldn't bother carrying a spare. It would most likely just get old and never get used. The chances of one blowing up and leaving you on the side of the road is not very high on virgin tires. More likely what would happen is you'd pick up a screw in the shoulder causing a slow leak and the tire place would refuse to fix it. That would be a situation where you'd need a new one (which would suck) but you're already at a tire shop. They usually only get super gung-ho about that if it's a steer tire though and would usually repair it.RushmoreTrucker Thanks this.
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