I have 7 trucks currently. .all 1 ton with 35 +5...works well..we run all 48.
Truck and trailer empty is about 20k so I usually keep payload under 20k to be under 40 total. .we are registered for 43k just in case we have to get a little heavy at times, even tho 42k is the most i would go under normal circumstances due to axle and tire capacity. You will be good with a 35 +5 and a tarp..u can haul just about anything and consistently hit $6000 to $8000 a week or more running partials..depending on the lane and freight.
Best hot shot trailer? Length? GVWR? Brand? Options?
Discussion in 'Expediter and Hot Shot Trucking Forum' started by KinkadeIN, Jan 2, 2014.
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Last edited: Feb 2, 2014
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Okay. Just did the research again. Ford published specs give my truck (F350, 7.3l, extended cab (not crew cab), 8' bed, SRW a GVWR of 9900 lbs, a GCWR of 20,000 lbs, and a maximum tow weight of 12,500 lbs. The truck scales out with a full tank at 7460 so with my fat butt in the seat (300 lbs) I can load about 2200 in the bed. Or I can tow 12,500 lbs. all up trailer and cargo. right? While 12000 cargo would not put me over 26,000 lbs, it would be way over the GCWR. (picture me scratching my head)Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
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What's the best trailer for hauling 4 cars but can also haul freight if needed?
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i have a ford f450 super duty and a big tex 37 feet doble axle trailer can i go for 43000 pounds ? -
can anyone tell me if a 40 maxxed gooseneck is a good trailer
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If a trailer needs a torque tube, in my opinion it’s either a poorly designed trailer , or a trailer built by a manufacturer using a low grade of steel to cut costs and maximize their profit. Over the years, we’ve bought a lot of PJ, and LoadTrail trailers, among other not so well known manufacturers who also built quality trailers.
Some dealership salesmen will try to talk you into having a torque tube installed when the trailer is being built, to simple drive the trailer price up. The more stuff the salesman can talk you into buying the more money he will make on the deal. Anytime a trailer salesman recommends a torque tube, I walk away and buy elsewhere.
Never buy a trailer sight unseen. You need to personally check it out. Take a tape measure with you when trailer shopping. Measure the trailer, and your truck to make sure you’re not going over 65’, and measure the bridge to make sure it’s not over 40’. Quality control on these trailer assembly lines can be horrible. I’ve measure brand new trailers that were as much as 5” wider at one end then at the other. I also get on top of the trailer that I’m thinking about buying and jump up and down on the tail of it to see just how much it flexes without a load on it. I’ve seen trailers that bounced, rolled, and wiggled when jumped on. Also get underneath the trailers and inspect the welding and powder coating. They all look good from a distance.
In my opinion, you also need 40’ of deck space. If you buy a shorter trailer you will regret it.thanktheLord, Just passing by and TN_Chief Thank this. -
I'm looking to buy a new Silverado 6500 to haul a 48' gooseneck, do I need to keep it cab & chassis to be legal ( my understanding it's called a power unit for a 1ton dually to haul a 48' to get around the 65' length) thanks Randy
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When you say 48' is that including the neck?
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Mine is a special order PJ with 42ft on bottom and 8ft top deck, as some know 40ft pipe is usually 41-43 ft long. I don't use the top deck often, but its nice when you need some extra deck! I've hauled some 53ft freight and it works fine..I was using a F450 dually, with Neckover bed. The truck has just over 800.000 miles, (its for sale!) Was looking for a replacement when the Volvo, came up..twice the truck, with sleeper...it wasn't a hard decisoion
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