Removing air horns and adding train horn

I routed the existing 3/16 line down to a pilot valve. Then ran 1/2 from there. The 3/16 just opens and closes the valve. Kind of like a relay in a electric circuit.

 

That's a heck of a good idea. I used the factory size air line, ran it up the headliner down the side post of the cab and then split it to one air horn on each side of the bunk. And it didn't work, to small of line with to much length, horns barely made a sound. So I used an electric solenoid and wired it to the beep beep horn.
Don't really like it. Gonna buy train horn sometime

 

I struggle with in series and parallel. I ran one line from valve down to under the bunk then put in a T one line to each horn. I believe it's to much line causing pressure drop by the end

 

No i have the pilot or relay valve mounted directly to the passenger air tank. Then 1/2 inch to the air horn. The 3/16 is run down from the pull cord to open the valve. I had a electric solenoid but didnt like the abruptness of the sound. This way i can feather it on too.

 

Rank, I can probably help here. I used 3/16 and made sure I had system pressure at the airline to the horn when I pulled the valve.
Trust me when I say they will wake you up. Those horns do not require that kind of air volume. If you want to get really trick, buy an electric over air solenoid and connect it to the center horn on the steering wheel horn. DOT only says you have to have operating horn, does not specify you need city horn and air horn, DOT has never said a word to me in the last 10 years I ran train horns and no city horn.