DETROIT INFRAME COST??

Yes you do. And one you do one yourself you see how stupid easy it is and will kick yourself for all the money you've spent for others to do it. Basically it comes down to its so easy as long as the guy doing the work cares, it can't be messed up. So the warrantee is practically useless.

Edit to add: some will argue the warrantee protects you from bad parts, and that was true a few decades ago. Today the machining process is so much more advanced, as long as you buy quality parts and not the cheapest chinese knockoffs you can find.

 

Well that's not true Detroit diesel in short rebuilt mind 3 times, then put 3/4 engine in it. They had injector problems and piston/liner issues. Even tried aftermarket parts to fix oil consumption. Used 4.5 gal in 10,000 miles. With 60,000 on engine. I am a heavy truck mechanic and owner op. Very thank full it was on there dime.

 

Was it really a parts issue, or was it shoddy work by a dealer mechanic that hates his job and life, and therefore doesn't give a rats behind about double checking head bolt torque?

 

What was the piston liner problem that they had to rebuild it 3 times.

Woreout on here had a buddy with a factory remanufactured Detroit that the head gasket went bad at 100 thousand.

I trust my work , I am a stickler for cleanliness and precision .

I am surprised in that list of parts that there is no mention of replacing the harness until you get to a step4 rebuild.

 

Spyder in the manual do they specify for you to retorque the head after running the engine
.

 

On a 12.7? No. You torque all bolts to x pounds in a specific order. Then tighten again to y in same order. 38 head bolts if i remember right.

 

Seems like the liners would seat and might drop a little after going thru a heat cycle.
Just trying to figure out why everyone seems to have head gasket problems after some rebuilds.

I was taught to always retorque after a heat cycle and never ever had head gasket problems on my old hi compression gas engines.

 

2k labor or so around here, you supply the parts. For 10k you're getting a rebuilt head, water pump, turbo, injectors cylinder packs, oil cooler, some sensors, etc. You could do that 4 times for the price of one stage 4. Hmmm.

 

The liners can't drop if everything is done right. They press right down on the cast iron block counter bore, then the head is bolted tight to it. Only way that liner is dropping is if it was put in crooked, or the block some how wore away. And i don't know about you, but i haven't seen too many pieces of cast iron wear unless someone screwed up.

The top of the liner has a lip that sets down on the counter bore area. It would plurality have to break in order to drop farther down into the block.

The reason for head gasket failure, imo, is that people don't set the head down exactly perfect and then slide it around. That damages the head gasket. What i do to prevent this, is set some steel rods into the block as guides in the head bolt holes, and set a couple 1x3 pieces of wood down so when i lower the head i don't contact the gasket until I'm positive it will be perfectly lined up. After verifying is a good fit, i lift the head just enough to pull the wood out then lower it down again.

 

What I was thinking is the cylinders are not all the way down in the bore to begin with, especially if it had been cut and shimmed.
We're dealing with thousands of an inch in protrusion ,wouldn't take much settling to throw it off.