Retorquing the Lugnuts

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by camionneur, Feb 5, 2016.

  1. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Correction, we're now on page 11. :biggrin_25522:
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
    Reason for edit: Or maybe I'm on my own page.
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  3. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    I'll continue talking to myself when I get the wrench, thanks.
    [​IMG]
    Looks kinda like a microphone...
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
    Reason for edit: So what if I'm going nuts, it has its place.
  4. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    [​IMG]
    Well, since I was looking around at more specialized sockets, I'll also mention that some or all of the impact ones are set up with a hole on each end for a retaining pin, and a groove around them for an o-ring that goes over the pin (or it's a one piece o-ring with a pin attached). Not all sockets use the friction ball on one side, and notches where it slips in and out of. The other way would keep it from slipping off if you got parts specific for that (the extensions just have a hole through the end for it). I may go with this if it needs to stay on better.

    Looks like some of the one-sided pins are a little longer than a ball bearing too, so I guess it depends on how often you want to change out sockets, which type would be most convenient. Or that socket has sort of a divot on the inside for the longer retractable pin, my impact socket doesn't (it could have been filed there). I'd go with the retaining pin though, and maybe tape the o-ring on. I'll also have to try taping a ball bearing type extension to the socket first, if I'm leaving them attached (might work well enough, and the torque multiplier I ordered comes with an extra socket that would be useful for front wheels without the extension).

    Looks like I'll need at least a 12" extension after all, since 3.5" is about as long as 3/4 drive deep sockets get (the one I ordered said it was 6", but they tend to include packaging in their measurement). Together they're about 14.5" in length.
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2016
  5. Dale thompson

    Dale thompson Road Train Member

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    the thread that just won't die but is worth some laughs. my son is a tech. at a ford dealer he does medium duty trucks so on friday he tells me he had his A game on and he stuffed a V10 in a parcel van in 3 hours so I said wow thats fast but there this guy online that thinks he can check the torque on 100 lugnuts in 10 minutes he started laughing so hard he could hardly take a breath.
     
  6. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    I checked with that yesterday (and before I was thinking at least 14 total, glancing at the measuring tape), had about 3.5" beyond the tire with a 12" extension on the 3.5" socket. Now I'd say a 10 would clear the tire by enough, but then the trailer was out a couple inches past the tire, and the other inch & a half would leave room for my arm on the wrench (so the 14.5 is good). Could use the 10 on a tractor with the same margin (12.5 total there).
     
    Last edited: Feb 23, 2016
  7. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Yeah, maintenance is an ongoing discussion for me, as it should be.
     
  8. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Thanks, an article on Torque Wrench Myths says that too.

    "In order to be most accurate, a torque wrench needs a slow, steady pull up to the desired torque. Some bolts, like those securing the main caps, require a lot of torque. Make sure you have the block secured and you’re in a position to apply the final torque in a steady pull without jerking or tugging the wrench."

    In that case I'd think it could be more accurate sometimes to use a torque multiplier and tighten more easily and slowly, just depending on how well a torque wrench fit the task (although it may be necessary to confirm a torque mulitipler is set up correctly with a torque wrench too, as they can be off by just as much otherwise).

    The article also confirms that backing off nuts before torquing in order to overcome breaking torque may not be necessary within 50 ft-lb in my case, or beyond 15 their example. They say within 5 ft-lbs it's especially questionable.

    "The lesson here is that although your torque wrench is perfectly capable of reading the difference between 65 and 70 ft-lbs, if you ever need to change the torque on an already tightened bolt by less than 15 ft-lbs, first loosen the bolt so that it’s in a relaxed state and start over."
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2016
  9. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    Those seem to have lower torque ranges, often an in-lb measurement. I'm looking at them for use with a multiplier though (something to compare). Some even have an in-oz scale.
     
  10. camionneur

    camionneur Road Train Member

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    I also ordered an extended depth socket, it's 5 lbs and 10.5 inches long with a stud sized hollow shaft running its length. Whether or not I need one deeper than the 3.5 inch long socket for bolt clearance, I think it may be advantageous to use in general, as it is bigger around than an extension to hold while positioning, and the short extension I add to its end for extra torque wrench clearance would not detach as a result, because I'll be holding the actual socket to move it around.
    [​IMG]
    Could also use it to thump tires. :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 3, 2016
  11. GrapeApe

    GrapeApe Road Train Member

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    My 1/2" one is a Proto and goes to 250 ft. lbs. My 3/4" one, also a Proto, goes to 600 ft. lbs. They make several ranges in each drive size. The reason the larger ones are not very popular is that they are not very tough. When you have multiple mechanics using them, they get thrown around and the dial gets broken. Proto makes a nice torque wrench that comes in a nice plastic case. It needs to be put back in that case and put away. Not thrown in a tool box or on a shelf unprotected. Mine is mine, no one else uses it. I use torque wrenches often, so I send them out yearly for a calibration check and none of them ever needed to be recalibrated, they were fine. The shops 3/4" is a Snap-on clicker, and it needs calibration every year. It's never far off, and it is a high quality tool, but I suspect the abuse it gets from 7 different people tossing it around takes its toll.

    If it is something that you want to keep in a side box and not keep in its case, I would not recommend a dial type wrench.
     
    camionneur and not4hire Thank this.
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