Spec'ing out a truck to purchase to pull dry van?

Pulling a dry box, a condo sleeper is the way to go...and a wheel base that takes into consideration the size of your sleeper and allows for as narrow a gap as possible between the back of the sleeper and front of the trailer when the 5th wheel is set where it needs to be for your axle weights to be correct.

Front axle weight should closely reflect the weight limit of the tires you intend to run. If you're running lo-pro LRG tires, a 12K axle is really all you need. If you're stepping up to 16 ply tires with the H load rating, a 14K axle will allow you to use that rating to your advantage when axling out. Often times (Mack specifically) will provide spring brakes on BOTH drive axles if the steer is spec'd more than 12K. 12K or less, and you only get them on 1 drive axle. Personal preference is to have them on both axles.

As for drive axles, typically those will be 38-40K rated.

Brand is up to you. As a truck owner, parts availability is important. If you have to drive 2 hours to get parts for a Peterbilt, but only 20 minutes for an International, then it would make sense to get the International. If that International dealer is the only one within 300 miles, but there are 3 different Mack dealers in 3 different directions all 30-45 minutes away, then Mack starts to look like a better option. If you're running irregular freight OTR and won't be spending much time at your home 20, then Freightliner might be a good choice because every TA seems to be a freightliner authorized service location. Look at your situation, and choose the one that will work best for you. The other thing to consider in regards to brand is ergonomics. Is it comfortable FOR YOU? What I like or what your buddy up the road prefers doesn't really matter if YOU don't like it.

Gears, transmission, and engine all need to be considered along with the tire size...which pulling vans should probably be kept to lo-pro 22.5's. With my 11R24.5's, I'm 13'8" to 13'9" when hooked to a dry box. How fast are you typically going to set the cruise? 65? 70? 75? Whatever speed that is should fall in the engine's "sweet spot" where it runs most efficiently. To get there, the tire size you select along with the transmission you prefer will determine the rear gear ratio to make that happen. 10 speeds are really all you need. 13 speeds give a little more flexibility and increase your ability to keep the engine in its sweet spot at lower speeds. 18 speeds are really unnecessary for dry box freight, but if that's what you want, get it. Your truck, your money. You've also got the choice of direct-drive vs overdrive transmissions. Whatever transmission you choose, you take the top gearing and tire size, and whatever axle ratio puts the engine in the sweet spot at the speed you want to cruise is the ratio you should get.

As for what I'd want on my truck, that is irrelevant because I'm NOT you. My operation is NOT your operation.

 

If you are buying a truck, have the salesdweeb take care of the specs.

I agree with bulldog, I run macks but I do not have a 10spd in any truck, I like 13/18 because it allows me to move a truck to a different type of freight without headaches - drivers who can't figure out how to drive a different trans.

 

All disc brakes. Cummins X15 Performance. I would setup the transmission to run in direct drive for the speed you plan on running most time, so you get the best MPG. Then can put it in over driver or the last gear when your really in a hurry. The new auto shift transmissions are nice but not sure how they would be for long term repairs. Probably not cheap when they get older.

Watch out for thin axle housing. They will built the truck with drive axles housing that are to thin. What happens is when driving you get funny tire wear and nobody can find the problem. They found the axles are actually flexing driving down the road. Don't get lightweight axles. You want the bigger ones because they won't flex. I don't remember the exact number the thinks ones are like 11mm and no flex one are 13mm or something like that. They found this problem because of super single drive tires. If spec a truck with super singles the built the truck with the stroger axles housing. I would get the stand 40,000 lbs drive axles or whatever it takes to make sure you don't get the thin axle housing.

 

It's got to have an apu. We use the electric one with a diesel bunk heater, which works perfectly unless you sit for longer periods of time (more than 12-14 hours in hot climates).

Paccar motor seems fine, 321 gears seem to be a good compromise, whatever transmission you prefer. The automated ones seem to do better on fuel (which makes NO sense to me, but there it is). Get the second bunk, just in case. Lockers if you drive in snow much. Biggest fuel tanks you can get. 13.2 fronts or heavier. Air bag suspension unless you do much off highway driving. Disc brakes.

 

Peterbilt 389
280” wheelbase
Mid roof stand up sleeper
Cummins x15 550hp
18 spd with 3:55 rears
14k front axle

 

I pull a pneumatic for dry bulk products, I would spec something along these lines for maximum payload:

Peterbilt 389 - 48" flat top sleeper - 250" wheelbase - 3.55 rear ratio
Cummins X12 (500hp/1700lbft) - 13-speed Eaton Fuller -12k/38k axles
11R22.5 Alcoa rims - Holland aluminum fifth wheel and bell housing

Something like this:



If I were pulling a box, I'd probably upgrade to the 48" high-top sleeper for better aerodynamics, but otherwise, don't see why anyone would need much more for a truck pulling up to 80,000 lbs gross. Especially with a ~17,000 lb dry weight.

 

Those light-weight trucks are great if you're trying to maximize profits for 2-3 years and then trade it off before those light-weight parts become an issue you have to deal with. If you're planning on keeping the truck for 5-10 years (or more), you'd be better off spec'ing slightly heavier and more durable parts. Running a 12K steer axle, for example, you are at 100% of its rated capacity EVERY time you're loaded at or near the legal max. Compare that to a 14K axle, where you're only at 86% of the axle's rated capacity when you're loaded 12/34/34...and if you ever need to move a little weight off your drives and the trailer tandems are already slid forward as far as possible, it also gives you that little bit of extra capacity to help keep you legal.

 

I’d look good in that

 

True, but in the bulk world, every pound counts. With a 17,000 lb tractor, you could potentially squeeze 52-53,000 lbs of product into the tank. Pulling a box, you normally don't need much room over 45-47,000 lbs, so a 17,000 lb tractor isn't absolutely necessary but personally, I would rather run a lighter tractor all the time, just for the possibility of squeezing more in.