Clutch Rod bushings

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Dino soar, Jul 29, 2019.

  1. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    Just to be sure, I was talking about the pocket bushing they had in the bottom of the shift lever.

    Meritor’s can be challenging, burning them out with a torch would probably be the easiest, but we are a flame free shop. So hammers, chisels and cussing will get them out. Reinstall by pressing the new one back in and re-drilling the hole for the pin or bolt.

    Fullers, If I remember right, are a cut off and weld new on, which I always had to take to a different shop to have done. Which was easier, but it came with a bill. And bills have to be “explained” or paid in other cases!

    The fullers in my newer 2011 &newer, they changed the shift lever and made them offset. We haven’t had to change any of these so I’m not sure about it.
     
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  3. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Ok, I’m curious about under the shift tower. I’m doing clutch fork bushings, rod itself just bolts on. Trying not to miss anything.
     
  4. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    I have not looked at the parts list but I know there's a bushing somewhere in the shift tower.

    I don't think I need to mess with that mine feels pretty tight the way the lever goes in and out of gear.
     
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  5. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Mines good, installation kit came with new gasket. But when trans was new/ reman. The shifter just floated, I can always do it later, buf trans is out now.
     
  6. Dino soar

    Dino soar Road Train Member

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    That's great! I'm glad you got started with it.
     
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  7. Working2party

    Working2party Medium Load Member

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    I’ve never rebuilt the actual shift tower, but I’ve taken a couple apart. Many times if it’s loose just the shaft (usually has the pivot ball machined into it) has to be replaced because the tip is worn. But if you go that far there is a dowl isn’t the base that keeps the shaft (shifter) from turning. Make sure you replace it also.

    But if your shift lever feels loose many times the bushing in bottom of the shift rod can be replaced eliminating most of the slop.
     
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  8. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    ACCA8C18-B9C5-4093-92B3-A1A32C46408F.jpeg ACCA8C18-B9C5-4093-92B3-A1A32C46408F.jpeg 19180E83-A92D-4EF4-B2CF-093A5A283D6E.jpeg 60E93945-20D8-418D-94D1-323262317BBE.jpeg
    And a little paint, makes her look like what she ain’t.
     
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  9. wtokhi

    wtokhi Light Load Member

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    gotta buy the whole linkage, or that rod, make sure u set ur clutch height right when installing the new one
     
  10. Rideandrepair

    Rideandrepair Road Train Member

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    Here’s what I came up with, I don’t know if I was missing a bushing or not. But the axle bolt should be better. No slip at all. Ace hardware, had to grind it a bit, exact size needed may be available, don’t know. This will work good.
     
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  11. Hulld

    Hulld Road Train Member

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    Looks like that will work just fine.
    Looking at what you came up with looks like one of those bolts that holds a wheel on a push lawnmower.
    My Columbia uses a 3/8 bolt and a bushing on the clutch rod but I don’t know if it is oem or not?
     
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