My conundrum...

Im 12ft11in wide from Cincinnati to houston, have a rear escort most of the way. He's doing a really good job but I'm conflicted as he tells me he thinks he's lost the brake pads from his front passenger side wheel that it's squealing like metal on metal. When i asked him his plans he says he wants to finish the job then get it fixed.

I can appreciate him wanting to get the job done, but I'm concerned that if something happens, then it will come back to bite us in the ###. I called my company and they want to see if he's able to get it fixed tonight, if not then he's gonna be replaced.


What would you do?

 

Shouldn't take more than $20 and about 10 minutes to throw a new set of pads on. Parts stores are everywhere and usually open later into the evenings. Most even lend you all the tools you'll need. Even if his rotor is dug the pads will still do their job well enough.

 

Go with him to a parts store and help him change it yourself if you don't want to take a gamble on the next guy being an imbecile. They're not that difficult to change usually.

 

They do have metal tabs "wear indicators" on disc break pads that intentionally make metal squealing noises when they get low.And they do sound horrid, like it's metal on metal or there is a fist full of rocks in there. If it's not pulling to one side when the brakes are applied, then I wouldn't worry about it.
Brake wear indicator - Wikipedia

 

He says hes got plenty of brakes and that it isnt pulling. Im fine with it if his dispatch is good with it. Just gave me some concern when he tells me that he thinks he lost hi pads on that wheel

 

Yeah, it's definitely noticeable that something has changed when they get low. "ohh snap, that dosn't sound right!".

 

I have lost front pads on my old GT from the 70's before. What happens when the pads go away, you are down to the metal disc brackets that hold on them rotors until the rotor metal shaves down to the vertical vents between the planed surfaces which begin to drop and scatter metal as it disgentergates and destroys the brackets during the stop which eventually drains your brake fluid causing more problems really fast. The master cylinder tries to limit the losses by design and a cross linked to opposing wheels thankfully But the problem is the same. You do not have a car until you replace the rotors, brackets, pads, brake lines and so on. Cost me a thousand dollars that month.

Pads are very cheap. If you need them, drop em in in a hour at a shop somewhere, anywhere. But when rotors wear past a certain point it becomes capable of structurally disgingterating and destruction of the support stuff near it.

You basically don't have a escort and must stay put until you do have one. Either with him fixing his brakes and coming back to you or you fire him and call around for another escort.

I don't mean to be difficult but I am working on the presumption you must have a escort with you somewhere when you move a inch or across a state.

 

If it’s just the wear pad indicators you can bend them back with a screwdriver or pull them off with pliers even better and still have enough pad till the trip is through . Need to get a look at them. They’re made for getting your attention and saving rotors . Rotors are so cheap best to replace when doing job the right way especially on front. May not be warped now but good chance of warping after brake job. Causing pedal to bounce when applied.They will stop squealing till the pads are completely worn and then start grinding. That’s when you have the beginning of a problem.

 

I’d be making him fix it before it leaves you stranded when something worse happens

 

I'd do calipers too. Or at least a caliper slider kit. I learnt that one the hard way after I burnt off 6 month old pads and rotor....