Hi guys,
Some know my situation...some dont
Short husband died. Need to move truck to new place. Got her going, she sat roughly 2 years. Drove her 2x around block . She sprung some coolant leaks. I expected something because a freeze plug popped out. But was not sure if it ever was in all the way or right. She looked new but didnt look brand new. Anyway oil cooler leaks. And a metal tube, well hoping it's just the tube.
Went to Peterbilt gave #s off of engine tag. He says no parts list comes up for motor. He said cummins is now involved, they should know not to panic .lol I am of course lol.
Looking at oil cooler it drips out of the bottom part of the end with 4 bolts. Looks like I could take bolts out put new seal.. it could be wishful thinking on my part . As I have never worked on one and am quit clueless on it. I also get treated like a woman at peterbilt. Which is fine because I am. But can someone tell if It possible to just change seal or do I have to buy new oil cooler. ? I prefer changing seal if possible. Cost wise. I am willing to learn how to change it. Peterbilt said it was too hard for me. I say they just dont know me .lol I will order a couple and try again if its ruined first try. If I cant do it , I'll get someone who can.
Yes I see rust, so I will take her to get cleaned out.
84 Pete 359 n14 daycab can the seal
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Changenme, Mar 10, 2020.
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I’m not totally familiar with that engine but maybe one of these members could help.
@spsauerland @Goodysnap @QUALITYTRUCK @pushbroomChangenme Thanks this. -
Looks like its coming out the pipe plug on the cooler end cap rather then an oil cooler seal?
Whats the engine s/n or last 6 of truck?spsauerland Thanks this. -
Right across from the line that goes straight up from the oil filter there should be a drain there or a plug.
It looks like that is what is leaking.
You could try to remove the plug and have someone hold their finger over the hole because antifreeze is going to come out when you remove it. Put a thread sealant paste on the threads of the plug (you can buy that at Home Depot) and reinstall. You don't have to make that plug crazy tight. Just tighten it up until you feel it's getting snug and maybe give it just a little bit more. Make sure the engine is cold when you do this.
That engine is not an n14 it is a big cam 3. Some of the late big cam 2 engines may have that same filter setup.
That's that is the same engine that I have.
Very dependable mechanical engine.
The n14 is the same block but it's the newer electronic version.Last edited: Mar 11, 2020
Changenme, QUALITYTRUCK, SmallPackage and 2 others Thank this. -
Thank you. Hubby said n14. I am getting a crash course on these. Lol
I will give that a try. Thank you so much. -
Changenme Thanks this.
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Thank you. I feel lost . My husband worked on it. I put a clutch in with him once. He wasnt fun to turn a wrench with at all. So I didnt get to learn anything on the trucks. I regret that. Now's my chance. Unfortunately I'm on a timeline moving . So I'm jumping in blind and treading water in a man's pond. I cant find a reliable mechanic to come out and just make her road worthy to new home. Once in her new home. I'll take my time learning her ins and outside. Shes got a 2 story shop. Its huge. No more camping outside for her. Just need to get her there lol.
She has another leak. Unknown where. But the metal tube is wet. The bottom one on drivers side. I believe it's coming from the higher side.
hoping it can be tightened. Have not looked hard on that one yet. Been stressed over other leak.
Then after these leaks I hear air in dash at trailer parking brake knobs and far back by drivers side. I want to say it's a brake thingy. But I'm only taking on 1 leak at a time.Dino soar Thanks this. -
Peterbilt just called. Thank you for your info. I corrected the motor before he could. He sounded shocked. I still ate a little teasing. I deserved. Your info saved me a lot !! Thank you. I was able to look a little more intelligent . They quoted about $460 to replace and refill . With myself doing the work.
I said first I'm checking the plug above .lolDino soar Thanks this. -
Those are the coolant lines for the air brake compressor. They have o-ring type washers in there to seal them. Kinda like the garden hose washers for the spigot. You can see if you can tighten them a little more but they probably already are. The lines well feel loose and have a little wiggle too them even if they are tight and if the rubber seal is good they should not leak. If its a slow weeping leak just keep an eye on it during your drive to new home. Carry a couple gallons of coolant with you on truck just in case you need to add.
On the air brake leak you can google bendix air brake troubleshooting and you will find a lot of good direction there. There are some schematics and diagrams posted online. It is hard for someone to troubleshoot for you (without looking directly at it) until you can get the basic gist of what things are to even start to be able to explain the problem. -
Thank you. Yeah it's tough to explain. I understand. I can work on my dodge cummins. Now have a ford. Very foreign to me. Then now the pete. It's a crash course. I would pay someone but I cant find a reliable mechanic. The peterbilt mechanic is not very nice to me. Parts guy is great. I dont want their mechanic . Plus I cant get her there yet. Dropping the amount of coolant she is. I appreciate the info. When I get the coolant leaks stopped. I'll start learning the air system. Unless I find a mechanic . Thanks again
SmallPackage Thanks this.
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