Hi all,
We've got this cab over, and are having trouble with a solenoid that powers the right terminal on the dash, by the fuse panel.
The solenoid gets power from the battery on the left post, has a center post for power from the alternator, and it goes out the right post. The right post will not get power. We have already replaced the solenoid.
If we jump power from the left post to the center post (with the alternator disconnected) the solenoid clicks, and power gets through to the post on the dash.
It seems as though this brand new solenoid isn't working, but I want to make sure there's not something we are missing before we get another.
Any ideas??
Thx
98 international 9800 troubleshooting
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by Restless7, May 18, 2020.
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You basically proved it by crossing power from the the hot side to the trigger post
(The smaller center post) and you got power on the right post.
The problem to me seems you are not getting voltage on the trigger wire to turn the solenoid on.
Do you have voltage at the smaller center post wire when you turn it on?
Also the solenoid needs to have the case grounded.
It looks like the mount bolts might be broken?
If it’s not bolted to a ground Surface the solenoid won’t trigger and turn on.BoxCarKidd and AModelCat Thank this. -
There is a copper drawbridge between the two big posts. The center lug is to energize a coil that magnetically pulls the drawbridge closed to complete the big circuit. The magnetic control portion uses the chassis ground via mounting tabs instead of another lug. Id say check your ground but i see youve buffed the surface and it clicked when you jumpered it so you have a complete circuit on the control side.
What you are missing is positive voltage on the trigger wire that you say comes from the alternator. Basically this is someones idea of a battery saver. You can only use the devices downstream if the truck is running and charging.
It sounds like your alternator is down. Step1, measure the battery resting volts. Then start truck and measure again. Bring the revs up a bit when you first start to kick the alternator into high charge. You need to see half a volt higher with it running.
If not, hold a piece of metal near the alternator. If you feel magnetism its charging and youve got a downstream issue. If its got no magnetism it isnt charging. Now check for battery voltage on the field terminal and output lugs. If youve got a bulb on the dash for an alternator dummy light, check it. It is in series and if its blown the field will not get any juice, the bulb must work for the alternator to work. You can jump juice off the charge post to the field post to see if the alt will kick on. -
Yes, the center wire comes straight from the alternator, and lights up the tester like a Christmas tree when the engine is on!
We didn't bolt it down, assuming the studs resting in the holes, and everything touching, was sufficient for testing. I can add the nuts and see if it changes, but, we have a good connection, I believeHulld Thanks this. -
We will check voltage today, thank you.
It does have power coming from the alternator... we've just been using a test light, not a volt meter, and it was really bright, so we took that as working fine
But, I'll get some hard numbers today, thank you
The worst part of all of this, is this post runs the plug for the brake lights. It's got one of those air switches we have been chasing for 3 days, and it landed us here. The previous owner just made a jumper power wire from the plug to the left post in the dash instead of fixing the problem. -
Sure glad to help. Were narrowing it down then.
If jumping the solenoid control post makes it actuate then youve got a good solenoid and good ground. If your alternator is charging but that trigger wire isnt toggling the solenoid then there is an open of some sort between the alternator hot lug and the solenoid control lug.
Your alternator output post.. How many wires are on it and what does it/they go to?
I cant see why that solenoid is there in the first place if it just powers half the dash. -
Im seeing two small gauge wires with ring terminals not connected in that photo. Are you connecting the wrong one to the trigger post?
BoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
The center one is a red one that comes from the alternatorBoxCarKidd Thanks this. -
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Welp, looks like ya got an external regulator which makes resting super easy. You should see AC power on each of those white wires when measured from ground. And 13.x vdc on the output lug.
See if youve got around 13vdc out of the output lug and at the other end of the wire where it mounts to the solenoid terminal. Only think i can think is bad crimp connection or corroded lug at tge post. I have had perfect looking 4gauge cables have ZERO continuity before.
I use a halogen offroad light to load test wires that pass with a meter but logically must be the issue.
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