Need advice from o/o that have purchased used trucks

I had to replace the computer on my truck at 750-760k miles, it’s just said “No.” and shut the truck down and would not allow it to start.
So if someone plugged mine in it would only show 150k miles on it.
I know of a guy, when he bought used trucks for his drivers, he’d put a new computer and odometer and still run them over a million before getting rid of them.

 

I bought a lot of trucks in the past years, here is something you, OP, need to understand.

Most trucks in fleets are serviced to keep them running.

This means that the mechanic isn't going to do a good job to make a repair. They are going to make them run and get it back on the road quickly.

ECMs go bad but it is truly RARE, and most of the time there is a hidden or underlying problem, most likely a wiring harness.

It is easier to just change an ECM then to try to find out what the real problem is.

As a rule, I pass on any truck with an ECM that isn't original.

Why?

Because there are thousands of trucks looking for owners, not the other way around.

So do your DUE DILIGENCE.

Don't take the word of ANYONE that the truck is fit and will last.

Get an ECM dump. Not a summary but the long version of it with all the data.

Take the serial number to the dealer, not the place that has it but the actual manufacturer dealer and have them print off the actual order (this will include all serial numbers, the specs of the truck and who actually ordered the truck) and have them print off all the work done within the dealer system.

Get a dyno, which will tell you an important number - the percentage of RATED horse power. This tells you how well the engine is.

While it is on the dyno, you need to get a blow you test, this is a test that tells you what condition the rings are, which if it is high, it is ready for an overhaul soon.

Contrary to the myth, blowby is only measured by a specific device when the engine is under a heavy load to produce blowby. It is NOT measured by idling or seeing vapors coming out of rhe vent pipe, as many seem to think.

Get a mechanic to go from the bumper to the rear. Tell him/her that you want to document every little problem or worn parts that need to be replaced.

NEVER USE THE DEALER'S MECHANICS ... NEVER.

The dot inspection is absolutely WORTHLESS, it is a broad inspection that is only used to show the truck is road worthy.

And I have to add this, I negotiate the sale price by finding what's wrong and how much it will cost to repair. This is subtracted from the sale price. If a dealer refuses, I walk out.

Get all major fluids checked, get oil/coolant analysis done,


This all costs money out of YOUR POCKET, not the sellers.

Expect to spend anywhere from $750 to $2000 PER TRUCK to do all of this.

This is money well spent, people are lucky to get a truck that has been taken care of, so they say none of this is needed, many many disagree with that.

It only takes one time when the truck craps out and it becomes a giant flower pot, I have one sitting in my yard that cost me a lot of money. I can let it sit, but you won't be able to.

About warranties, and that ... these things can be a good idea, won't say either way, it is more like a peace of mind thing.

However remember this important thing, warranty doesn't pay the bills and many times it only pays for part of the repairs.

So structure your internal revenue stream to include a large savings to keep paying the bills for three to six months. This makes a huge difference.

 

There was a driver that did what you are about to do got the$ from where you are buying the truck from and on 1st load it cost him a wad of money in repairs to get truck to them to find out what he though they going to do to help him out of truck that the used truck dealer sold him, look up in top corner of this page and type the name of place your going to be buying truck from and see if you can find the drivers story?

 

I always ran the vin # with the Dealer. Any warranty work will show up. I think Volvo’s have a longer Factory warranty, than others. It costs $0, and can give you Manufacturer Date, Location, In Service date, and a record of past problems. Depending on what parts have been replaced, could be a plus, or a negative. My first Truck had a cylinder kit installed under warranty. I ran it up to 1 mil miles, no problems. Most ECMs last a long time, surprisingly. Often replaced in error, or damaged by shorted wiring. As mentioned. I’d be more concerned about the Fleet it came from maintenance reputation. How often do they change oil? Every 70k? I ain’t buying it.

 

I’m a tad late to the party and skimmed a bit on the reading. Let me be first to say my experiences with buying are non-conventional and not by my choice. The first truck I ever bought was done over the phone, bought it sight unseen besides a few photos in 2009. I still own it and drive it to this day. The W9 I owned I shopped for, sold it later and it blew up 50k later, not my fault but stuff happens. My point is it is a gamble or best estimated guess. You will never get the best deal, just a fair one. The cafe truck stop guys brag about about beating the dealer down 25k is silly. They are too far and few of those deals. Don’t get super truckered. Your gonna pay for you want. And sometimes over buying is better than under buying. It depends on the situation. Right now if you had a budget if 50k for a truck. You could have almost whatever you wanted. Come x-mas the used truck market will be soo flooded they will have to give them away. So be patient don’t buy irrationally but do your homework.

This is what I consider when I buy.

1. The dealership. You buy a Pete, your gonna deal with Pete so consider the reputation of the dealer and do they treat you well? No? Don’t buy a Pete. Go check kenworth and same process. Worst thing to have is a crappy dealer. Also consider the dealers location, if they are close to home even better.

2. If you buy from a name brand dealer do your homework on the 3rd party warranty. Personally I have had decent luck with two of the 3rd party warranties and my father got an entire ISX turbo and actuator replaced under his 3rd party warranty but these were main dealers. Not Joe truck sale lot.

3. Do your homework on motor, transmission and rear end combinations. Most trucks are spec’d to live with. But some are not. I would get an oil sample, I would have a separate shop do a pre-buy and I would have the ECM print out. But just because there are red flags doesn’t mean run. See if the issue looks resolved or just cobbled.

4. Buy a truck that is setup the way you want. Don’t fall into the I will convert that later or add the drop axle myself. Just buy it setup the way you want. Too many used trucks on the market to settle for one to do work on.

Good luck and remember to save money for operating and break downs. No matter how much your truck is they have issues. Old or new.

 

I run a 1997, I paid $15k for it, probably put another 20k into it before it pulled a load, but I kept drawing a company paycheck and went through it at my own pace, no payments are a great thing starting out when it’s costing over $2300 a month for insurance for new authority. Having a truck I can actually make run and not need to be towed for an emissions related sensor Is also a relief, and being able to run paper is just a bonus on top.

I bought my truck From its original owner/driver, I would never buy a fleet truck, oil might of been changed once a year, maybe not, and still has the original grease from the factory. Oil sample while you change every fluid/filter in the truck is a good idea, but personally I would just take the money you would use to put to On a Dyno and just keep saving it to put to the motor, unless there’s recent paper work (which still isn’t a guarantee) just plan on buying the truck and doing an inframe. 2006 and down, then if you want after a few years buY new and flip them over every 5-6 years, 2008 to 2015ish was not a good year for any manufacture with the emissions standards.

 

If you're buying a truck with 350k miles but it has a pretty decent amount of idle hours is there any maintenece you can have done on the aftertreatment system right off the bat to prolong its life?

 

I’m guessing your talking about the def system and if that’s the case, sort of. The Pittsburgh Power cetane booster can help and does work but it’s not completely a miracle fix and it takes time. If it’s clogged it’s clogged. High idle usually means city driving, or has a or had a PTO