Hello,
It's a 2012 Mack pinnacle with mp8 and Eaton fuller road ranger 10 sp.
During a DOT inspection, the shop we use found a broken clutch return spring. They installed a new one, it was 3 dollars. Now the clutch feels different, and not in a good way. The engagement zone is narrower, and its acting like the clutch brake is worn, ie, when I'm at a stop and I go to put it in gear, I have to put my foot about thru the floorboard, and even after several seconds it will still grind. This truck has the air-assisted clutch. When the air is low this just-described symptom is very noticeable, and if I have a solid 125 lbs in the tanks it acts almost normal. Which is the way this truck has always acted, expectedly, however now it is much worse.
I've been city driving this truck for 3 yrs, so I have a good feel for it. So basically, it felt great but after the shop replaced the return spring it changed the engagement zone width and feels like the clutch brake is shot. Before I call the shop back I'd like to know what I'm talking about better, so do any of you have any input on it?
Many thanks,
J
Clutch return spring question
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by randomname, Jun 27, 2020.
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You're talking about the spring on the clutch pedal, under the dash?
No way that'll change anything to do with the clutch engagement. All its going to do is hold the pedal up. The only way anything to do with clutch engagement would change is if they made any adjustments while it was in the shop.Rideandrepair, 650cat425, randomname and 2 others Thank this. -
The spring being broken wasn’t alowing the pedal to go all the way up. Now that it has a spring the peddle travel is feeling different and longer. So now it is probably just amplifying the clutch needing adjustment. The last one inch of hard squeeze to the floor is for the clutch brake when at dead stop. That keeps you from hitting that brake during normal shifts if you use clutch to do so. Peddle should have around 1-1/2 inch of freeplay from top to the spot were it starts to pull clutch. Adjust clutch first. You Have to make some simple measurements on clutch inside the housing to get it perfect. Than if the peddle has linkage you fine tune that if needed to get the “slack” out.
My old Pete has the peddle go directly to the cross shaft on the trans though the floor board. Very different feel from a peddle mounted solid that uses linkage. Noisy too.Rideandrepair, spsauerland, 650cat425 and 3 others Thank this. -
Thanks guys. Honestly it felt great to me before and it's hard to imagine that spring change causing the adjustment to go that far out, but I'm no mechanic. I do know that that clutch is picky about the air pressure being up so maybe they installed the new spring then adjusted it but didn't have good air pressure? I have no faith in the shop giving me an honest or knowledgeable answer when we call them but we'll see.
Small package, I've driven a few Pete's and it took awhile to get used to their "upside down" pedals, but I liked their mechanical linksge. Tho one time one of the linkage mounts broke and needed to be fixed, it still beats this air clutch.
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randomname and 650cat425 Thank this.
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The clutch return spring has nothing to do with clutch brake, engagement or release.
It seems the shop didn’t adjust the clutch brake properly when it was in for service. -
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I replaced the return spring on my hydraulic clutch and it didn’t feel too different on engagement, except the pedal coming back up more on disengagement was different, but not too drastic. -
check for leaks around the clutch resevoir and actuator
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