I swapped engines. I used my flywheel housing and my starter. The flywheel was replaced with a nearly new one. Only difference was mine had an 8 1/2” bore and the one has a 10” bore. Four new batteries. All grounds were cleaned as the engine was out. No issues before the swap.
When I turn the key sometimes all I get will be one loud click. Bump it 2,3,4 times and it will roll the engine over.
I swapped to the starter that came on the donor engine and it does the same thing.
I’m at a lose at to what the problem is.
Series 60 12.7
KW starter issue
Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by bigguns, Jun 28, 2020.
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I have posted before about voltage drop tests. It is not rocket science. We need a meter as we cannot see electrons flow.
Probably something simple like a ground between the engine and frame or batteries. A simple test light will do the job. Two people make it easier.bad-luck Thanks this. -
Starter relay? Different motor but mine presents the same when one's going bad...
spsauerland and bigguns Thank this. -
Does it still have the push on connectors for starter relay in battery box?
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No. All wires have eyelets and components are studs with nuts.
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bigguns Thanks this.
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Rideandrepair and BoxCarKidd Thank this.
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Rideandrepair and bigguns Thank this.
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That is a 42MT with the solenoid on top which you most likely have.
If you use the screwdriver between the two large studs the starter motor should spin without engaging the engine.
That is the kind of stuff that can ruin screwdrivers and damage threads. I do not like to recommend things that could have bad results. An example for the reason of voltage drop testing. Went on a service call for a similar problem. The starter had already been replaced. A test light between the positive battery terminal and the solenoid would light when the start button was depressed. The battery cable connector at the battery was in a sealed connector. It looked great but testing narrowed it down and I cut it open. It was all green and corroded inside.
Love to see you have her going pics!Rideandrepair and spsauerland Thank this. -
All you need is a test light ( old school with a light bulb ) and enough wire to bridge the span. Have someone try to start it in each case. The light should not light.
Hold the test light on the small solenoid terminal nearest the frame. Have someone push and hold the starter button. The light should stay lit.
Happy 4th. What did you find?
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