KW starter issue

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by bigguns, Jun 28, 2020.

  1. bigguns

    bigguns Road Train Member

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    I swapped engines. I used my flywheel housing and my starter. The flywheel was replaced with a nearly new one. Only difference was mine had an 8 1/2” bore and the one has a 10” bore. Four new batteries. All grounds were cleaned as the engine was out. No issues before the swap.
    When I turn the key sometimes all I get will be one loud click. Bump it 2,3,4 times and it will roll the engine over.
    I swapped to the starter that came on the donor engine and it does the same thing.
    I’m at a lose at to what the problem is.
    Series 60 12.7
     
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  3. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    I have posted before about voltage drop tests. It is not rocket science. We need a meter as we cannot see electrons flow.
    Probably something simple like a ground between the engine and frame or batteries. A simple test light will do the job. Two people make it easier.
     
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  4. cccoltco

    cccoltco Bobtail Member

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    Starter relay? Different motor but mine presents the same when one's going bad...
     
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  5. spsauerland

    spsauerland Road Train Member

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    Does it still have the push on connectors for starter relay in battery box?
     
  6. bigguns

    bigguns Road Train Member

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    No. All wires have eyelets and components are studs with nuts.
     
  7. bad-luck

    bad-luck Road Train Member

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    I had a similar issue. Truck would do exactly what you are talking about in my 379. Put a new starter in, same issue. Checked the voltage to the starter solenoid, at times was only 6-8 volts. Turned out it was the wire from my starter button to the solenoid.
     
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  8. bigguns

    bigguns Road Train Member

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    I have seriously questioned if it could be that wire or the key switch itself. I am hoping to avoid excessive searching for the problem. I am getting tired of working on an old truck. Getting old myself. By posting here I was hoping for a shortcut to the problem. I’ll report back when I have the problem.
     
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  9. bad-luck

    bad-luck Road Train Member

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    I feel your pain. Hopefully it's an easy fix. I just ran a new wire to the started from the button. Good luck
     
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  10. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Well if I am working on a break down ,like I am driving it with limited tools, I might cross the battery top terminal from the solenoid to the small one on the drivers side. It should engage and spin the engine.
    That is a 42MT with the solenoid on top which you most likely have.
    If you use the screwdriver between the two large studs the starter motor should spin without engaging the engine.
    That is the kind of stuff that can ruin screwdrivers and damage threads. I do not like to recommend things that could have bad results. An example for the reason of voltage drop testing. Went on a service call for a similar problem. The starter had already been replaced. A test light between the positive battery terminal and the solenoid would light when the start button was depressed. The battery cable connector at the battery was in a sealed connector. It looked great but testing narrowed it down and I cut it open. It was all green and corroded inside.
    Love to see you have her going pics!
     
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  11. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    That is to the large + battery stud on the solenoid. Do the same thing from a - battery stud the the big ground stud on the front of the starter.
    All you need is a test light ( old school with a light bulb ) and enough wire to bridge the span. Have someone try to start it in each case. The light should not light.
    Hold the test light on the small solenoid terminal nearest the frame. Have someone push and hold the starter button. The light should stay lit.
    Happy 4th. What did you find?
     
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