Paint finish

Discussion in 'Heavy Duty Diesel Truck Mechanics Forum' started by spindrift, Sep 10, 2020.

  1. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    That means it was in the original paint and you removed enough mils of clear for it to come out. It's going to be a different shade without the clearcoat. The clear doesn't "melt" into the color so try shooting some clear over that area. A little blendz-all after the clear and then polish. If there is not enough mil's of clear it will start lifting off/turning yellow around the edges.
     
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  3. spindrift

    spindrift Road Train Member

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    LOL, @wichris , you have far too much faith in my capabilities. I'll leave the clear coating to the professionals. If it can't be done with a rattle can, it can't be done.
     
  4. jason6541

    jason6541 Road Train Member

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    Yes I have tried white vinegar it really did the trick on mine.
     
  5. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    LOL. Easy to forget that someone has little/no experience. If i can do it why can't you. LOL
     
  6. God prefers Diesels

    God prefers Diesels Road Train Member

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    Check this out. If you're going to have to get it professionally sprayed anyway, it won't hurt to try this:



    This guy shows you how to blend it right off the bat:

     
  7. spindrift

    spindrift Road Train Member

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    It's been less than 48 hours and it appears that the edge of the clear coat is beginning to separate from the paint underneath. It looks far worse when the sun is shining.

    IF, and I repeat, IF I choose to lay down some clear coat I'd like to try just this one side of the hood. Obviously, I'd have to prep the entire left side IMG_20200914_121451.jpg even though the damage occurs over about one third of this side.

    Do I need to be concerned about spraying over sections of the hood that will have different thicknesses of materials? I'm hoping that the clear coat will hide the transition edge between areas where I had to sand down to remove the staining and the original surface.
     
  8. wichris

    wichris Road Train Member

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    To do right you need to remove the clear. You can try to feather it back further and clear the whole section but will likely be able to see the transition. Urethane's are not easy to "melt" together like enamel/lacquer
     
  9. SmallPackage

    SmallPackage Road Train Member

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    The stains are happening because the base coat is flat ( matte) and dry. Wax will not help. You will never get it to shine. It is a basecoat/ clearcoat system. The red basecoat sprays on matte finish just for the color. The clear gives it the glass like depth and shine. The paint can be saved. It has to be color sanded clean and smooth and resprayed with a clear etching type gloss coat. The compound/polish and wax will just add foriegn oils that will make it difficult to clean out of it and make it worse looking and nothing clear will stick.
     
    Last edited: Sep 14, 2020
  10. SmallPackage

    SmallPackage Road Train Member

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    Also on basecoat/ clearcoat system the base color has no uv protection. The clear is what gives it that. Everytime you wash from now on after the clear peels off don’t be surprised if the sponge and water turn red. The paint becomes chalk rather quickly.
    Just think of late 80’s early 90’s Gm’s that had the clear peel problem as an example.

    Texas heat and sun is the devil on auto paint.
     
  11. spindrift

    spindrift Road Train Member

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    At this point, it just might be cheaper to buy a new truck.
     
    650cat425 and Rideandrepair Thank this.
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