Info on buying a used reefer

I would have the trailer inspected for metal fatigue(the floor, cross members & suspension) As far as the unit unless they have maintenance records(would look for one that does). I would make sure it is looked over very well. Carrier or Thermo king take your pick. Some companies won't load an older reefer trailer keep that in mind when purchasing one. All the best

 

@wichris

check seals around rear doors..... during the day get in the trailer and shut the doors look for any light getting in..

 

Check the roof. I was so dumb 10 years ago. Trailer was good all around from the ground view. Good reefer unit, decent price. First good rain in OH and almost rejected load gave me some nervous moments.
Aluminum skin on the roof was separated from crossmembers and was flopping developed long cracks along the roof. Roof skin must be glued tight to every cross member and be flat. Any floppy spots or bulging - refuse it.

 

Borrow an infrared reader, run it down to zero and you'll know how water logged it is.

 

I would go with a tk or a carrier they seem to last better and are quieter, you can find a fairly decent used trailers for ~20k, wouldn’t go much older the. 8-10 years old either,

 

Choosing between Thermo king and Carrier is just a preference. Important things to inspect are the floor, especially at the back where the doors are. Check the floor on the underside if the trailer, also check cross members under the trailer. Check for damage and bent cross members. Check the doors, make sure they close and seal properly. Inspect the seals around the door. Flat floors last longer then corrugated but are a little heavier.
In my opinion, stay away from Wabash reefers, there floors are very weak. I would choose between a Great Dane and Utility only

 

Great Plains runs both. They're phasing out the TKs because the service shops tend to be a-holes more often than not.

In case you're wondering, they sell their older trailers - 5 years and older, if I'm not mistaken.

 

You can buy a decent used trailer without a unit and then buy a brand new unit if that’s an option,...you can also buy a new trailer without a unit and buy a used unit as well if that’s your cup of joe. I say the first thing as every old unit I’ve used has needed new things within a year or two. I believe a compressor or engine is $5k in parts alone and then there is all the small stuff. A gearbox is $1k, the seal between the compressor and engine is about $900 to have someone else do it, I paid $500 on the road for sensor I couldn’t do because the Freon had to be taken out then put back in. Changed the alternator in parking lot one day, and have gone through 2 batteries. Life can be a real PITA with poorly maintained ones. Also, make sure you replace the belts and get a PM from the start and have them overlook everything. Trailer-wise, don’t mess up like me and get ripped off. Have it inspected by a pro. I’m still going through those woes but by the time I’m finished, I won’t need another trailer for at least a decade.