Pretty common.
This issue can be extenuated
by years of truck washes using acid to brighten the tanks.
I have seen tanks reduced to paper thin because of to much acid washing at truck washes...
driver's side fuel tank leaking - 99 FLD
Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by rollin coal, Jan 30, 2021.
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They wear out on a kw too.....
When I had my truck painted I had the tanks bottoms welded and put new rubbers......and I split a tank just for fun.
Last edited: Jan 31, 2021
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Salt and sand get between straps and tanks and eventually sand a hole through them. Years back when sand was more common you’d see trucks 4 years old leaking already. Best preventive maintenance is washing more after bad weather.
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One day this summer while home I noticed something hanging under my 2013 cascadia so i headed straight to the shop .
It was a broken tank strap , further inspection revealed all 4 straps were corroded to the point that a ball point pen could be pushed thru the centers .
My tanks are behind the fairings which doesent help the corrosion issue .God prefers Diesels, Rideandrepair, rollin coal and 2 others Thank this. -
Well it's not coming from the tank straps. I have narrowed it down to *somewhere* either below the bung on the right fuel line or around the weld on it in the photo below. I can't believe how hard it is to find exactly where the fuel is coming from. It's really just a minor seep that looks a lot worse than it is after being parked a while.
My parking spot is on a slope so the fuel level is now low enough that when I point the truck facing uphill and on my ramps it doesn't seep out anymore. I've got a short run to do Monday that I booked so I could burn more fuel out of the tanks. If I can epoxy it that would be great but I have to know exactly where the **** it is coming from before I do that. If it's the fitting after all then epoxy ain't the fix. Otherwise the tank is going to have to come out but I do have somebody that can weld it if it does.
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When repairing tanks I put air on them to check for leaks with window cleaner. It does not take much pressure if it has air at the spot leaking. With my shop regulator I know to stop as soon as I hear air going through it. May not even read on the gauge. Someone holding a leaf blower in the neck with rags to seal it would probably even work.
If it is just a pin hole skuff it up up real good with rough sand paper. Put a piece of 2 inch masking tape about a 1/2 inch below the leak. Only the bottom of the tape is attached. Then mix and apply JB weld to the leak area above the tape. Fold the tape over to seal the ends and top. That holds the product in place. Good to go tomorrow.xsetra, lester, God prefers Diesels and 4 others Thank this. -
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Once you find the hole I've had excellent luck with two different epoxies. PC Metal and Marine-Tex. I had a stainless tank trim/ fairing eat a whole in my Pete's tank a year after I got it. I fix it with PC Metal and it's still there 6 years later. I have an 88 Kenworth with a patch of Marine-Tex on it from 1996.
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