2011 Cummins NOW reman ( a love story)

Less than the 30K rebuild. But, you will have a warranty, that'll be a super plus.

 

I'm sorry that happened and I hope you have good luck with the new engine. I'm really glad that you had the money to be able to do what you had to do. Most can't do that.

You probably will, but I suggest that you put all new injectors in of course new water pump thermostat have them go over the oil cooler new Turbo... pressure check the radiator and the charge air cooler of course new hoses and belts and clamps. I would say brand new starter and alternator too while you're at it. I assume those engines have a harmonic balancer that will need to be replaced and I assume an accessory drive also. Don't forget a new radiator cap.

It's a good idea to replace your motor mounts and your radiator mounts now that everything is out. Check your cab mounts also. Not like you want to do anything else but it's probably a good idea to have your fan clutch rebuilt.

Basically when you flip the hood you just want to be able to check the oil and you're done for a long time.

Also now would be the time for a new clutch and flywheel resurface and check the ring gear see how much wear is on your input shaft if that should be replaced with a new bearing, have them check the forks and the cross shaft bushings on the bellhousing. Now is the time that you have it out. Also I have them put a new rear seal in your transmission and change fluid. They will give you new front and rear main seals with the engine.

I say this because then from the radiator to the end of the transmission you don't have to worry about any of that for a long time and you can concentrate on the rest of the truck.

It's more expensive initially but it makes life much easier for you in the long run.

 

If you get a reman make sure it's a current RTLO model otherwise you could end up with a lower od gear .85-.87 you want the .73od. Drive shaft will have to be shortened too

 

You can, but it's going to get more expensive. I don't think they'll accept the 10 as a core for the 13. Plus you will have to have a new drive shaft because the 13 is longer.

Now I'm sure you're not made out of money but here is something else that I would consider if I were you. All U joints should be checked. If the truck sat for some period of time, replacing all of the wheel seals and all of the pinion seals is is a good idea. And changing the oil in both rears.

What happens is when the truck sits for a long period of time the seals dry out. You begin to use the truck and you may not see it initially but then one day they're leaking.

Remember, if the wheel seals leak they can contaminate your brakes and in addition to not being able to stop right you'll have to replace your brakes. I'm not certain but I think that may put you out of service also. If your pinion seal goes, if you lose enough oil it will blow it out your rear. Not to mention your bearings on any axle.

If you do not want to replace them all at once, then during your pre-trip and as you stop through the day you need to keep checking them and really keep a close eye on them.

And if no one has checked them while I'm on the subject, you should check the S cams for your brakes. People do brake jobs and often they only replace the brake shoes and they replace the drums only when there is absolutely nothing left. If they did not Grease the cams regularly, if they are worn out your truck won't stop right. And of course check the slack adjusters too

And whatever you do make sure you regularly grease that truck and make sure that all fittings take Grease. Grease is cheap compared to the damage caused by not greasing.

 

Few years ago my dad got wrote up 3 diff tickets for 1 seal that was just starting to leak at the coops on 287 in NJ. Besides a walk around your nose should be able to pin point it 1st

 

Is your soon to be x hot? Does she like cats?

 

To put that in context. I'm selling one of my trucks, a 12' Freightliner, that's pretty rock solid for $25K.