Cat 3406 Peec converted

The last 8PN C came with a 2 piece piston. They had a 16.4 swirl bowl crown. The OR 3590 is the only thing that works on them. They were ok stock but nothing worked to get much more out of them.

another famous ol trick that made one run like #### was put E model pistons and crowns in them. There just wasn’t any way to get them timed for the pattern to hit the bowl at the right time.

 

What about the IPD 14.6 two piece piston El20 was gonna use, is that a copy of a CAT 14.6 two piece piston upgrade for the b/c? If so, did CAT offer a matching nozzle for that steel top or is the 8789 the best closest match

 

The 14.6. 2 piece IPD pistons are a copy of CAT, but they are for a genset application. The 8789 nozzle does match the bowl but again genset. On the street they just make smoke and heat. I don’t really know anyone that didn’t go back to 8785 for street use. I have seen 8789 lay down impressive numbers at dyno competitions, but they changed turbo, nozzles, and timing just to compete.

 

Like i said befor, the 8789's will work great if timing is right...same goes for the 8785's...actually the 8789's run cleaner than the 85's because of the 12-1500psi more pop off pressure and more spray orfices. You really need an 18-24° fuel pump cam. You need atleast 21° of initial static timing, and the start rpm of the advance needs to be adjusted to 1450rpms, if you leave them to start advancing at a low rpm like they did with low initial timing it will never stay together and will break pistons. You need to have the advance all in by 2000-2100rpms and for the most efficient burn you should have atleast 31°! Also you will want a governor spring from a 7fb or 4mg 425hp. Set the high idle rpm to 2350rpm. This setup will need atleast a 78mm/1:45 turbo but will work best with a 80mm/1:45 or 1:58 with rack maxxed out with .060 of torque spring resistance. it will run plenty clean as long as you have it meter timed to the specs i listed. You cant just pin time this setup regardless of what nozzles you use. This is a custom setup and the advance needs to be custom tuned only with the help of a 8t-5300 timing meter. The 8787 nozzlez are the next size and largest nozzle the stock barrels and plungers in the pump can support. The 8789's with the timing and pump settings and turbo i listed will make 700+hp. It will not require any special treatment other than you'll want a pyro, boost, and fuel psi guages and drive it by them and the tack. This setup will not live if lugged below 1500rpms at any time. It will make in excess of 40psi of boost and you dont at anytime want to allow the pyro to go above 1000° EVER. Follow all my instructions and this engine WILL LIVE just as long as any rebuilt engine.

 

Now answer me who really meter times one?


I’m one of the few that have one. Even fewer know how to use it.


I also have a question for you. If you set the start screw at 1450, how do you get the advance all in at 31 degrees by 2000 or 2100?

 

I shouldve mentioned that a 9Y-5882 spring will get your advance curve where it needs to be with the high initial timing...this spring is from a 7e-1041 advance that is for a 4p-0998 C model 7e5888 4p1414 18° fuel pump cam. Its very simple...if they dont have a timing meter and or find it necessary to meter time every mechanical cat then theyre not the guy you want working on your mechanical cat! their are still plenty of people out there that has them and knows how to use them...im only 37 years old and i taught myself all everything i ever needed about the pump and advance and how to use the timing meter...hell i bought mine piece by piece off ebay...Its impossible to know a mechanical cat is running to its full potential if you have no way of knowing where the timing is at in all the refrence points...if its advancing too soon it will be needing pistons soon, if it isnt advancing at all it will wash cylinders down and scufff skirts and liners, if it isnt advancing to its full targeted degree it will burn more fuel than it should. Its a necessity to have a meter if your going to claim to be a mechanical cat mechanic. If you think you can time it by ear without a doubt then we'll check it with my meter after your done! if you can pin the pump and advance it how ever many 1/8's, 1/3'rds, 1/4's or however many holes advanced the flyweel hole you say has to be we'll check it with my meter to be sure your right! my point is if the right guy is selected to build this particular motor it will (LIVE) Just fine. The hard part which is the timing specs has already been done for whoever gets to build this fine motor! by the way the fuel pump and advance that i reccomend comes from a 5kj5750...their is one other pump/pump cam, advance that can be used with even better efficency and thats from a 5kj7800..its a 7E5888 C pump 4p1381 pump group with a 4p0990 24° cam.

 

4w-4619 is the timing advance part number for the 4p-0990 cam. Its the old hydraulic advance/Spring retard and pretty much exactly the same as the 7fb advance other than the hub that fits the spline on cam nose is larger and would need to be ordered to make the 7fb advance work.

 

I agree that set up will work well. The only point I was trying to make is the avg joe doesn’t have the tools or skill to get it to work. Hell they don’t even know anyone with a timing meter. I didn’t mean to sound like you are wrong. Just that most don’t realize how critical timing is with that set up to get it to work

 

You have a part number for this turbo? I’m in need of one myself