Hey so after being shutdown for the bad weather in Texas (at least I was at home) I'm back on the road. So since I have a trailer now I figured I'd show some pictures of what I was talking about in my earlier post.
This first one is the homemade slide stopper I made. Nothing glorious but it'll get the job done. My last design didn't have nuts along the entire bolt shaft and ended up getting caught between the two rails on 1 of my trailers and bending so I'm hoping this new design will be stronger and not bend. As you can see I took a bolt, put some large washers on it and then some nuts on it. Maybe $5 tops. Vs $40 for an actual stopper of same quality at Iowa 80 stores.
In this image I'm pointing at the button tab thingy you pull to retract the tandem pins on an air ride trailer. You won't be able to pull it if trailer brakes are not set. You usually need to refill air tanks after brakes have been set for a while before you'll be able to retract the pins. So the process is simple, start your engine, build up air pressure, then release trailer brakes (red knob pushed in). If empty the trailer air supply and suspension will fill up quickly, loaded it might take a minute or two (you'll know when it's ready when you're air gauges stop dropping). Once filled, set the brakes (pull the red knob), get out pull that little button and you'll hear them (tandem pins) retract. Sometimes you need to rock the trailer fwd and back because they get tension against the rail. No biggy, just when you get in to slide them pull tractor fwd and back a tiny bit 1 time and you'll hear the other pins retract (like a popping noise).
This image I'm pointing at my front driver side tandem pin. This is 1 of the 4 pins that prevents the tandems from sliding while going down the road. I have had it happen with spring trailer when I forgot to relock pins (you have to do it manually on spring trailer, air ride does it soon as you release trailer brakes). It feels and sounds like your tandems fell off the back of the trailer! Scary as hell!
This image you can see my front tandem pin is 7 holes back. That thing sticking out on left side 2 holes in, that prevents tandems from sliding off the front of the rail. So when counting holes you are assuming that is hole 0 and thus my pins are locked on hole 7.
This one is hard to see but if you look closely 2 holes to the left of my stopper, you can see part of the rail that slides. When you are counting holes to set the stopper at, you want to assume this is hole 0,so if I was to leave my stopper where it is, I would be able to slide 2 holes backwards (this is the back of my tandems) because that bit of rail is going to hit the stopper and not be able to go more than 2 full holes, so once I hit it, lock the pins (releasing trailer brakes) then drive tractor in opposite direction till I hear them (pins) lock in place, it'll only have moved 2 holes. Really one of those things you kinda figure out by doing.
Hopefully this helps you understand everything.
Another note, my tandem holes are 6" apart (measured 1 side of a hole to the same side of hole next to it... So left side to left side). Sometimes the holes are only 4" apart. I have only seen these 2 measurements but it is possible that you could end up with something different thus it's difficult to say how much weight each hole is worth because we don't know what your trailer will be like. That calc app I told you about gives you the option to specify the hole distance to get an accurate calculation.
Hopefully this was clear as mud hehe.
How do you know when to and when not to slide tandems?
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by Flankenfurter, Feb 9, 2021.
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Brettj3876, Flankenfurter, SoulScream84 and 1 other person Thank this.
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I'd like to add. Make 2 of the stoppers. One for both sides. Don't want to end up off kilter on one side.
Flankenfurter, Farmerbob1 and Speed_Drums Thank this. -
@phox1515 good stuff on the post about tandem pins.
One thing though. Your slide stop is a nice, cheap solution, but it is grade 5 steel, so those nuts and the bolt are going to be damaged over time.
I would suggest looking at a larger diameter grade 8 bolt, so you would only have one piece, and it will be much stronger.
It should still be cheaper than a standard stop.
I found grade 8 coarse thread 1.5 x 4 inch partially threaded bolts here for $7.31 each.
McMaster-Carr
Personally though, I never use a stopper. I just line up a spot on the pavement with the step under the driver's door and use that to tell me how far I move when adjusting tandems.Flankenfurter, kemosabi49 and SoulScream84 Thank this. -
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I can do it your way too but stopper makes it easier and combine with the app you only gotta get out 2x. Once to retract pins and place stopper and 2nd time to get stopper. I have frequently had loads were shipper loaded me so heavy that I need precise set point on tandems... Even 1 hole off could put me overweight.
Shanebklyn, Flankenfurter, Farmerbob1 and 2 others Thank this. -
I use a piece of metal that broke off a trailer door years ago. The bottom part just below the handle that turns when you turn the handle. It fits perfectly in the tandem holes. I’m sure there’s better ways, but its never failed me.
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For me, trucking is like camping for dollars.Shanebklyn, kemosabi49, Flankenfurter and 2 others Thank this.
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