Detroit Series 60 12.7L 2000

High mileage. At that mileage you may need a rebuild soon after you buy it but you never know, unless you can get it dirt cheap. Just figure on a rebuild in the future.

 

Find out if the bull gear was done.

If they can't provide you with an actual verifiable receipt that needs to be done absolutely immediately before you even consider driving that truck around the block.

If it has not been done it is overdue and at any moment that engine could go kaboom.

 

Price? Warm oil and draw some oil for analysis. Wear metal rate gives a better idea of the condition of the engine. You can "inspect" the bull gear through a port on the front of the gear case by using a pry bar on that gear to see if there is any play because of a loose bearing.

 

If its cheap who cares about mileage my Truck probly has 2million miles or so on it been running for 4 years dont owe me nothing

 

If you buy just have the funds put away for an inframe. It could easily go another 300-500k or could let go the 1st week you put it to work

 

Why not pull the accessory drive and check the bull gear before condemning it? It’s a very simple procedure, if it doesn’t have play leave it alone.



With 900k sure catastrophe can strike at any time. But dumping a few grand in one at x miles just because can go wrong too. As in it could vent the block shortly after too. Then that money is a wash. If it’s checked and verified needs replaced then a deeper analysis can be done and a best course of action can be taken from there.

 

Unless it’s a local Truck, I doubt 900k is the original mileage. Road Truck, it’s more likely 1.9 mil. Is the Truck a 2000? 2001? Is the engine manufacturer date 2000? Or 1999. Same engines, but the build date makes a big difference in its value right now. I wouldn’t be afraid of the engine. Catastrophic failure is rare. Bull gear should be checked as mentioned, before running it much, to avoid a catastrophic failure. If it’s good, be sure to do it when it’s inframed, along with resealing the inner and outer covers if leaking. Otherwise, it’s probably a BK model. If so, it’s Pretty much the best 12.7 ever made.If not, it can be rebuilt with a BK kit. More details on the Truck would be nice. Price maybe too? As far as the oil being dark, it usually is, even right after an oil change. Why? Who knows? Excessive blowby is common especially at 900k. The usual failure is a blown head gasket, often caused by a dropped cylinder lining, causing it to build pressure in the coolant, might want to get a pressure test done. Checking that it holds pressure, at 10-15 lbs. Then starting it up and watching the gauge for excessive pressure build up.If it’s leaking, it will usually build pressure up real quick, and just keep building up. After running a bit, coolant shouldn’t Normally be under much pressure. Slowly taking the radiator cap off, it shouldn’t have much pressure at all. Usually a problem is very evident, Dripping coolant from the overflow tube. Eventually blowing it out. Shooting out of the cap when loosened, without fully taking it off, don’t want to get scalded. Another common problem is bad head gasket, usually leaking oil then eventually coolant down the outside, on the right ( exhaust side ) of the engine, towards the back. They can usually be ran till one of those problems happens. It’s not uncommon to happen at 825k. Both of the ones I’ve had, had each of those failures at 825k on original factory builds. If it’s a Nice Truck that I wanted at a nice price, based on current market, I’d probably buy it, mainly because it does have a 12.7. Very reliable and very reasonable cost for parts when needed.