starter question

Yes , lower amperage will cause starter to drag and eventually burn it up . Take off ground cable side of the batter and put a test light between the negative side of battery and other end to negative cable . If it lights up you have a draw . Start unplugging fuses one at a time and when the light goes out thats the draw

 

Use an old school test light with a bulb in it. Some of these new deals require near no draw to light. The memory wire for some radios can glow the bulb but not really draw much. Unhook that first. I have used a lot of amp clamp deals and such but always go back old school.
Some of the Petes here have had problems with poor battery cables. Petes and KWs are both paccar. Normally voltage drop tests tell the deal cold but we seemed to have more issues when hot. Where did you buy your cables?
There is a starter post going on at the same time. Some wore out guy put me on a Denso gear reduction starter. That helped a lot on the C15's. Cannot tell those folks if it will fit on all those other trucks and engines

 

Starter will always draw X amount of watts. If voltage is low, the starter will pull more amps. Amps = heat.

Watts = Volts × Amps

If voltage is low, there needs to be more amperage to maintain the amount of watts the starter uses.

 

Tell me more about these gear reduction starters for Cat C15 , mine takes alot of grunt to get her spinning.

 

Forgot to mention old school test light. good call. Actually when i key my CB it will light my old school test light laying on the floor. But thats a whole other thing. Broadcasting Watts lol

 

I thank I still have one of these starters on the shelf. Will try to remember to look and get a part number. Put one in stock for replacement as needed. All of those trucks are gone except one.

 

39mt is the gear reduction, 42mt is the normal starter
I don't know if spacers are needed on the cat motor. Also make sure you have the correct tooth count