Does anyone have a 2008 VT880 wiring diagram?

Discussion in 'Volvo Forum' started by Joeziah, Mar 5, 2023.

  1. Joeziah

    Joeziah Light Load Member

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    I have a separate post open on some A/C issues I'm having. It would be helpful to have a wiring diagram specific to my truck, its a 2008 VT880.

    I somewhat understand the diagrams of the VNL ones but they are not for my truck, I think. They seem very esoteric and not like other diagrams I've seen.

    I'm trying to figure out why my A/C Clutch won't engage and need to know where continuity needs to be so I can verify pressure sensors are working correctly to get power to the clutch....
     
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  3. JB7

    JB7 Medium Load Member

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    Low pressure due to a leak and not enough refrigerant, or no refrigerant, will cause the a/c clutch to not engage. It is designed this way so the compressor is not burned up if/when the refrigerant charge is low. You may have a bad clutch. You can disconnect the wiring to the compressor and apply 12v to see if the clutch engages. Or, if you have not already checked, see if you have 12v going into the connector that attaches to the compressor connector.
     
  4. Joeziah

    Joeziah Light Load Member

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    Yea, I can manually engage the compressor directly but cannot get 12v from the firewall to the compressor.
    Reason I'm looking for the diagram to see anywhere where a sensor is responsible for interrupting that voltage.
    I'm hoping there is information about the A/C Sensor, doubt it. I'm wondering if it measures pressure by resistance or does it just either open or close the circuit when ins in or out of spec...
     
  5. JB7

    JB7 Medium Load Member

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    Still did not say if you checked the pressure in the system? Usually 2 switches, a low pressure and a high pressure. Start at the compressor and follow the lines. Most times switches are outside of the firewall. If not, you will have to go behind the dash where the heater core and evaporator are. If the switch has 2 wires 1 is signal and 1 is ground. Low pressure switch should have continuity between the 2 terminals. Meaning that the pressure in the system is adequate and allows current to flow through the switch. 3 wire would be trial and error w/o a diagram. One 5v reference, 1 signal and 1 ground. Then there is likely an a/c control module.
     
  6. nasriza

    nasriza Road Train Member

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    this is because they are european design diagrams all volvos are same, your ac module is what connects to ac compressor and directly responsible for turning on or off. you pressure sensor on firewall line, also there is a freeze switch in the evaporator assy all these are inputs.
     
  7. Joeziah

    Joeziah Light Load Member

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    I went ahead and ordered a new pressure sensor for the low side because none of the terminals were showing continuity yet the system was at 30 psi when I manually engaged the clutch as well as when it was resting around 70psi

    Hoping like hell that fixes it.
     
  8. Joeziah

    Joeziah Light Load Member

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    Is the freeze switch something I can get to and test or is it internal? Like I said the the other guy, hope it was the low pressure switch being a pain.

    On a side note, what should I see for pressures to ensure the system is charged on the low side and high side, my APU was something like 30psi on the low and 150 with an 80 degree ambient. guessing this system would be the same, I did loose some coolant due to one of my manifold connections leaking a bit but I don't know how much.
     
  9. nasriza

    nasriza Road Train Member

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    Psi is relative to temp ac off not running full charge roughly ambient temp for example at 70f should be around 72psi when ac running should be high side up to 300 psi and can comes on to bring down psi low side between 20 to 40 psi low side u can look up psi chart on Google for r134a. U can test freeze switch but it’s a pain cuz u need to put in ice and measure resistance or u can replace it I think it’s around $50. Or so sold separate behind blower.
     
    Joeziah Thanks this.
  10. Joeziah

    Joeziah Light Load Member

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    Alright, I'll have to see about testing that next.
    I'm wondering if its not the interior ambient air sensor then, I thought Roman bypassed that when he got it working but maybe not. Its always just ran full bore no matter where you put the thermostat so I had to turn it on and off myself.
    I replaced the low side pressure sensor, didn't change anything though.
     
  11. nasriza

    nasriza Road Train Member

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    Might be module most like freeze switch or I think it’s called evaporator temp have u checked if there is power coming to your compressor with ac running maybe possible compressor clutch went to ####.
     
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