buying a new truck, what do I get?

4 years running with an emissions truck will make a 400,000 mile engine act as if its got double the miles.
We have two trucks that are a nightmare to drive. One is a 2012 Cascadia with a DD13, the other is a 2012 KW T660 with the Paccar MX-13. Both engines have roughly 5xx,xxx miles on them and they drive horribly. Neither has hardly any power to pull its own weight, both have to down shift while empty going over the Dames Point Bridge on I295 in Jax. The engine brake is useless on both, more so on the Paccar as I think that one was an earlier model that only had an exhaust brake and not an actual Jake.

The Freightliner is in the shop every other day for engine problems, egr, and the DEF system. The Kw is at the dealership at least once a week for DPF and DEF issues. It went to the dealer last Monday for DEF problems, then came back Tuesday. Thursday it was back at the dealer with the same problem and we got it back Friday. Had no problems all weekend but this past Wednesday, the 29th it went back because the DPF is no longer Regening. Found out if you use cruise control it wont allow the truck to Active Regen while driving, then when you stop to do a parked regen, 10 minutes into it, it shut off on me and had to be towed because it wouldn't stay running.

I vote on a glider kit if you don't run California.

 

They make gliders with engines other than Detroits. I know some offer them with Cat engines, but you won't see much mileage improvement. Some may offer N14 cummins engine options, I'd google it and see what comes up.

Personally I wish it were still easy to just buy a new truck then delete all the emissions stuff off of it, but since the EPA got wind of guys doing this its extremely illegal. I know some guys who have done it with new trucks and are much happier, but I am in no way recommending this route. It's risky, illegal, and you won't have a warranty.

If you decide to get a 2010+ emissions truck, I highly recommend one with a Cummins ISX. We only have One truck with an ISX and our top driver uses it, since it's the most reliable and best performing engine we have out of all our trucks.

 

I'd say you are doing pretty good at 6.9 yearly average with a flatbed running i-80 ...

Have you thought about ordering a new engine (another isx) and emissions system (if you need it) and dropping it into your current truck??

 

you need one of these three a 1993 w900 with a 4.25 cat or a 1994 379 with an N14 or a 1994 cab over shaker with a 620 horse cat c model which I happen to have will trade any of the three for cash

 

If your looking for something with a resale value, I'd forget about the freight-shaker, Stick with a KW or Pete, I drive a '13 KW T660 with a cummins isx 435 with a 10 speed, not sure the axle rating, but I've been ave. 7.4, good luck in your search

 

IMO; I would go with the glider,talk to the folks at Fitzgeralds and get it custom built for your operation. Im going to get one done in January 2016. It will have a Detroit 12.7 rebuilt with a micro-blue kit. Also a Fass fuel system and OPS oil bypass,with an 18 speed autoshift and a 6x2 with a lift axle. I will also get the big turbo and ceramic manifold. In the job I do now with with loads going out 25-30k and returning between 0-5k this truck will get a minimum of 10avg and hoping for 12s. And also you don't need to worry abt trade in value after 4yrs, If its built the right way you this truck should go 10 years without to many problems and the mileage and low maintenance costs will more than make up for any resale value. Good Luck with your truck hunt. Thomas Nevin

 

go for a cummins with and extended warranty,,more cummins repair places than any other engine and you won't be stuck going to a dealer ,,13spd or 18spd,,auto shift if you want max mpg,,40,000lb rears,,if you run a lot of snow get the lockers,,buy a pete or Kw, anything else and you will find it difficult to get good money on a resale or and easier to sell used,.if you buy a pete get the air ride with tracking rods, get disc brakes ,last longer, dot can not tell if brakes need adjusing and lower labor cost to replace brake pads,no carpet , get the remote door locks,,air slide fontaine 5th wheel, go for 150gal fuel tanks, if you do overweight get 4 straps on each tank,,order braded air lines,,last longer fewer wir leaks than nylon air lines
24.5 rubber with 3.36 rears, 3.42 if you use 22.5 rubber, if you order the truck (recommended) get a 60inch spread on your drive axles, better ride and if you ever haul overweight you get more weight on overweight permits,cloth seats, get an theromoking APU,,great warranty and you can get it repaired all across the US, also order artic insulation package, cab and sleeper with stay cooler in summer and warmer in winter, also get a large refrigerator, if you don't plan to run Canada get 244 to 265 wheel base,,

 

3.36 with 24.5 and 3.42 with 22.5? I think somebody needs a new calculator...