Double Yellow's Company Driver to Independent Thread

Discussion in 'Ask An Owner Operator' started by double yellow, Nov 5, 2014.

  1. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    Wait a second. I never said they were bad people. That's your emotions talking.

    I know quite a few really good people, that make bad financial decisions. My sister is a really good person, has a heart of gold, but if I was a bank or insurance company I wouldn't touch her with a ten foot pole, she is a high risk.

    Is it fair, probably not, I don't really know and I don't really care, life isn't fair and there are an unfathomable number of much greater atrocities in this world to be up in arms over than someone paying a few dollars more for insurance.
     
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  3. double yellow

    double yellow Road Train Member

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    The school of thinking I was taught (for gasoline engines) was that running the engine hard right off the bat broke it in sooner (made more power off the bat), but longevity suffered somewhat. Kind of like race tires -- if you throw a set on and go racing they'll be fantastic but won't last. If you drive gently for 30 miles and then let em cool overnight (heat cycle them), they'll last longer but won't be quite as grippy...

    So I'm going with a more gentle approach. I'll still roll into full throttle on the occasional hill, but I'm not going to be banging gears or spending any time at WOT above 1800rpm...


    Speaking of, I used my Ultra One points to get a ScangaugeD from the Oak Grove Petro. I felt naked without my boost and horsepower gauges... Anyway, while my butt dyno can't tell any difference, I am seeing a little more boost when under heavy load (briefly saw over 30psi when WOT uphill at ~1650rpm). That would have been ~28psi before. Scangauge horsepower read 347 instead of the former 333 (remember this is a 370hp @ 1800rpm fleet tune).

    I'm guessing the small crack in the old manifold had as much to do with the extra 2psi as anything. That's because I don't think the Ddec actually calculates horsepower (like Siemens/BMW ecus), I think it just looks at your rpm & load and looks up what the horsepower is supposed to be. The reason I say that is because it would still read 333hp when I had a nearly clogged fuel filter and even my butt dyno could tell I wasn't making 300...

    The scangauge is also showing roughly the mileage I'd expect and the first fill-up penciled to a reasonable 8.2mpg (gradual uphill, varied speed, and some rain/crosswinds). I'd estimate the old engine probably would have done a little better under the same conditions, but not much maybe ~8.5mpg.

    I do have a decent sized oil leak from the pan -- makes a CD-sized puddle overnight. Bolts seem tight, so I'm guessing the pan will need to be dropped and resealed. Really hope I don't get more than a walk-around inspection between here and GA -- my ISS score is 70 after that OOS incident and any more CSA points will probably give me red lights on the prepass...

    Llike Lazydog said, not bad people -- just bad credit risks.

    Obviously this is way easier for a single guy with little/no bills, but the cure for a paycheck to paycheck existence is to cut expenses. Some might say you could just increase income instead, but I think most who only do that wind up spending more money until they are in the same boat surrounded by nicer stuff.
     
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  4. rollin coal

    rollin coal Road Train Member

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    I don't think anyone is suggesting banging thru gears. 1,800 rpms will not hurt that engine at all. It will run just fine probably as high as 2,000 rpms all day every day. Load it up and drive it, work it good, if you baby it burning oil is what it will do from now on.
     
  5. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    Ya, I probably phrased things badly before. Banging gears is not what I was meaning. Just don't progressive shift, take it all the way up to 1800 or a bit more before grabbing the next gear. And run it up the hooks at almost full throttle. unless you got a dyno to use, a good grade and a whole lot of weight is the best way to make that engine work. you need to get her thoroughly warmed up, then work her hot for a while. Obviously I don't mean over heated, just up there at top operating temperatures. If she was put together right, you can run that lil engine all the way to 2k all day long and not hurt her. If they screwed up the assembly, no amount of babying her is gonna keep her from self destructing.

    Just accept that your gonna burn a whole LOT of fuel in that first couple hundred miles. And then once you got everything worn in go back to driving for economy.
     
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  6. spyder7723

    spyder7723 Road Train Member

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    Dy, I think it was Dave Ramsey or said the vast majority of people don't have an income problem. They have a spending problem. He was spot on.

    [QUOTE="double yellow,
    Obviously this is way easier for a single guy with little/no bills, but the cure for a paycheck to paycheck existence is to cut expenses. Some might say you could just increase income instead, but I think most who only do that wind up spending more money until they are in the same boat surrounded by nicer stuff.[/QUOTE]
     
  7. Skate-Board

    Skate-Board Road Train Member

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    Not the same but when I use to race motocross we use to rev the piss out of the engine after a rebuild.
     
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  8. Blu_Ogre

    Blu_Ogre Road Train Member

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    Isn't revving the piss out of em why you had to rebuild them?
     
  9. Skate-Board

    Skate-Board Road Train Member

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    Ha ha ha ha ha ha
     
  10. greeneinc

    greeneinc Bobtail Member

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    WOW. After a few days I was able to read all 89 pages and this is a ton of valuable information. Thanks you very much Double Yellow and all other members that contributed!!!
     
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  11. colorado18spd

    colorado18spd Medium Load Member

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    DY you posted in another thread about start costs being 15k how much of that was up front and how much on a monthly payment. Thanks, hope your rebuilt motor is performing great.
     
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