A/C Problems.......Stumped

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by JesseA, Aug 10, 2016.

  1. JesseA

    JesseA Bobtail Member

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    Okay fellas I really need some help. Last month my ac compressor went out, pulley assembly all busted up. Almost popped of along with the belts. Replaced it and also replaced the orific tube, put 6 cans of freon (tag on fire wall says 5.50 lbs) and small can of oil. Went a good couple days before the low pressure line froze up. I know one of my mistakes was that I didn't change the dryer or flushed the lines. So the following weekend I changed out the tube again and saw it still had junk in the lines, was dirty but not as dirty as it was weekend before. Same thing, a couple days went by and lines freezing up again. Well last weekend I went ahead and broke it all apart. Replaced tube again, replaced dryer, flushed lines with ac flush liquid and an air hose, broke off condenser and flushed that also blew air around it to clean the dirt off, took out evaporator and flushed it with same liquid and used a tooth brush to clean outside, also replaced the high and low pressure sensors. Refilled with 6 cans of freon (r134a and half bottle of pag 100 oil + ice32). Well low pressure line still freezing!!!!! Now I'm also getting a ammonia smell out of the vents. I am pissed and out of ideas friends.
    After filling the high pressure read around 250 but I could never get a read on the low pressure side. It reads going in but as soon as the can empties the gauge goes back down to 0.

    Anyone with any ideas or better yet a solution hahahaha, my box is empty now.
     
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  3. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    Hate to be the bearer of bad news but if your system was blown up, you're going to need to replace the condenser and evaporator too. And because you didn't do it the first time, the dryer and the orifice tube will need replaced again as well.

    You can flush a short section of line with CHLORINATED Brakleen (red can), but I'd replace long stretches.
     
  4. JesseA

    JesseA Bobtail Member

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    Why would I need to replace the evap and cond? Not being rude, really wanting to know. I'm not too well educated on ac knowledge.
     
  5. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    Oh, and 5.5 lbs is 7.3 of the 12 Oz cans.

    Drain the oil out of the compressor, measure it and replace it with exactly that much fresh oil. Plus another 4 oz. for the components you replaced.
     
    rachi Thanks this.
  6. JesseA

    JesseA Bobtail Member

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    Yea I knew I was short 1 can but I don't use the sleeper so I didn't want to over fill with only cab working.
     
  7. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    They are just about impossible to flush clean (as you saw by the orifice tube plugging up). And depending on the design, some of them absolutely should not be flushed.

    It doesn't take very much crud at all to plug up the orifice tube screen. When the orifice tube screen is blocked, the compressor is getting no oil and will burn up in short order.
     
    Last edited: Aug 10, 2016
  8. AModelCat

    AModelCat Road Train Member

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    The small passages inside the evap and condensor can get plugged up with debris. Also, did you vacuum out the system before recharging?
     
  9. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    The refrigerant capacity is still the same regardless of whether or not you use the rear air. The orifice tube and evaporator back there will also need to be replaced.

    Alternatively, if you don't use the rear air ever, just cut and crimp the lines then braze them shut with aluminum brazing rod. Then get a filter drier with a sight glass in the liquid line to determine when the system is full.

    Be sure to vacuum the system down with a vacuum pump. Moisture and air are the mortal enemy in any refrigerant system.
     
    rank Thanks this.
  10. JesseA

    JesseA Bobtail Member

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    Okay, I see. I was told these would be okay to flush out.
    If the low pressure line is the one freezing and not giving me a good read wouldn't the evaporator seem like the culprit?
     
  11. lilillill

    lilillill Sarcasm... it's not just for breakfast

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    It's freezing because the orifice tube is partially plugged. When that happens the pressure on the low side will be too low and will freeze just beyond the point of restriction.

    If your low pressure cycling switch is working, the compressor should be turning off once the pressure gets below a setpoint, usually 21 psi.

    Alternatively, some systems use a thermostatic switch with a sensing bulb in the evaporator to check for freezing. In this case, your system may not have a low pressure cycling switch.
     
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