1980 K100 Cabover Project/daily runner

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Adisiwaya, Mar 25, 2017.

  1. Adisiwaya

    Adisiwaya Light Load Member

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  3. Adisiwaya

    Adisiwaya Light Load Member

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    17906.jpeg
    That's the Color she's going be just did little area to test quick. Crome will be blacked out.
     
  4. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    Maybe try using a comealong. Pull on it, then pump the jack and repeat. Don't force it and if you unhook the lines you could end up in a free fall. Many have some check valves in the system and can get you jammed up. An air jack is the way to go. Especially on those double bunks.
     
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  5. Adisiwaya

    Adisiwaya Light Load Member

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    What brand of pump would you recommend? I've heard someone talk about a air/hydro combo on a pump
     
  6. Adisiwaya

    Adisiwaya Light Load Member

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    It's almost like that drivers side cylinder is froze up. Passenger side goes up and down
     
  7. BoxCarKidd

    BoxCarKidd Road Train Member

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    I do not recall the brand. Used to buy them from the IHC or KW dealer. Also from Mathews equipment in Atlanta.
    You could have a safety valve stuck in the cylinder. It has been along time but seams like some times you have go the opposite direction and then come back. If it's not to far over you could maybe pull the pin-pins out of that cylinder and just use the other one. Always keep safety in mind. We used to use pipe and or load locks under the cab like a jack stand.
     
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  8. SmokinCAT

    SmokinCAT Road Train Member

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    Brand is power packer, they are still made and sold. Most popular place is Ohio Hydraulic, at least I think that is the name.

    I think the air/manual pump is $6-700, the manual pump is around $300.
     
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  9. clausland

    clausland Road Train Member

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    I had the same problem on my Pete, would jack up easy enough, but wouldn't come back down. Turns out there are brass check valves in the valve body with really small ports. These ports will plug up with debris (old fluid crud) that develop and collect over time. You'll have to carefully take these check valves out and thoroughly clean them and the ports, drain the system, and replace the fluid. I used ATF type A to replace it. You may have to drain and refill a couple of times to flush out all the old fluid/debris. Once I cleaned it all out, it worked as it should. Be careful and make sure you engage the cab safety latches and block up the cab before messing with it....
     
  10. Adisiwaya

    Adisiwaya Light Load Member

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    My truck doesn't have any cab safety latches that I know of. Where would they be?
     
  11. clausland

    clausland Road Train Member

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    Not sure on a KW, but on my Pete 362, it's right next to the hydraulic lift cylinder (right side) and latch in once the cab gets to its height. I'll try and get a pix for you. Those little brass check valves have ports that are very small to allow the fluid to pass. It doesn't take much to plug them up, similar to the jets in a carburetor....
     
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