I'm reading up on flatbed, would like to get into it in a couple years and the OP's picture is something I would like to avoid.
Looking at trailers I see some have a rating for coils at 50K in a 4 foot section. Most coil racks I see appear to only be about 3 feet long. How do know that you are good with let's say a 42k coil on your 3 foot coil rack?
Oops,anybody we know?
Discussion in 'Flatbed Trucking Forum' started by Old Man, Oct 3, 2017.
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He's got the coil shoved back a bit, pushing more weight onto the spread axle (properly, for those of you who don't drag a deck)
Unfortunately, if you look at a flatbed trailer, the further back you go the more material in the frame you lose as the frame curves up to provide a mount for the axles. And that is an all aluminum trailer. Could have had micro-cracks in the frame prior to loading, that are very hard to impossible to see when the trailer is empty or very lightly loaded.
End of the day, it's unfortunate that it happened but I wouldn't place any blame on the driver. Depending on the age of the trailer and the amount of road abuse (today's roads SUCK!) and how frequently the trailer pulls very heavy freight (don't often see stepdeck pulling steel coils) this could have been a building issue that NO ONE could have seen coming.
Props to the driver. That coil is properly secured, and it looks like he kept full control throughout the entire situation. -
Orangees and spyder7723 Thank this.
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G13Tomcat Thanks this.
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Takes me two hours or more to crawl under and really LOOK into my trailer thoroughly. Longer if I find something beyond my ability to repair. And that's after I do the thorough crawling under and getting dirty inspection on my truck.
I keep my trailer, so it gets the same Owner Op level treatment as my truck. I'm planning on buying in Spring, so this is the best time to really get down and dirty on the equipment. Everything I learn now will save me money and time later.Grubby, G13Tomcat, 1951 ford and 1 other person Thank this. -
The PROPER way to load ANY trailer is going to have the axles relatively close on weights. Yes, you are ALLOWED 40K on the spread, but ideally you'll only have 34-35K there, with 33-34K on the drives. Personally, I prefer loading 33-34K on the drives and letting the trailer weigh whatever is left. The lighter you can keep it on the spread, the easier it is on the tires and the less stress you place on the frame as you go around whatever turns you'll need to make.
Loading heavy to the rear "just to be safe" because of the extra wiggle room afforded by the spread is the lazy way to load, NOT the proper way. -
Where would you put the coil? On a cracked trailer, you don't. -
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