Driving a truck on the snow

I know you have to chain in the Rockies, but im running a regional account that takes me over Jellico and the Appalachians in NC, Ashville area to SC, can or do you chain there???? haul all light loads like 5k pounds on these loads.

 

See lots of good advice. 1 thing I have done several times on familiar roads. If you start to spin on a hill ease off throttle move carefully on to the rumble strips. May sound strange but it gives your tires something to bite

 

Cheater chains.

It does work. Not just for a subtle bit of traction, but to identify that you are still on pavement if a ground blizzard is hiding the ###### road.

 

First snow, go bobtail into a really huge parking lot. Master a circle in it one way and then the other. Then master a figure 8 with it one way and the other. Learn where and how to break the rear end loose on it, then don't do it.

If it's powder snow you can do a couple feet, but it's not fun because you are going to break traction and then get stuck very easily. If it's wet snow, you will understand there is a bunch of traction, but not so when it turns to slush and freezes at night or in shady spots.

Certain winter storms when combined with high wind warnings issued by NOAA means white out. You are wise to wait it out in a safe haven like a full truckstop. But park with a small downhill out path and don't forget to roll your whole rig back and forth several times every 8 hours to pack down the accumulating under your wheels as you wait. Making a bed basically. You do not go into warned counties with blizzard warnings by NOAA. You stay put and wait. Call dispatch to adjust delivery appointments when necessary. It might be a couple of days.

If you can walk on it, you can drive on it. But not always. Without getting too technical, the 18 wheeler's ground pressure feels the ice just as much as you do.

If at all possible have your company shop put on virgin rubber on all 10 wheels of your tractor. That will ensure the winter will go by rather well for you. Chains too when you go into states that require them.

Take a look at your sleeper, load it with water, food etc and pile it with cold weather blankets, sleeping bags etc. Always fuel at 2/3 full. Sometimes that means daily, but fill it anyway. You never know what tomorrow brings. Fuel = life. Have something in the side box so you can mooch reefer fuel (When empty) or feed trailer from your tractor tanks if it gets thirsty when loaded.

Continually update your trip planning according to average speed each day during a winter storm. There will be days you get down the road well enough and other days you would be lucky to get 100 miles in 12 hours... or more.

When the temperatures approach 10 above and drops below that all the way to -55 or so minus wind chills... never shut off engine. Never. Reason is simple. Humans freeze in about 20 minutes at -55 or lower. If you get wet in anything less than 60 degrees, you have to get warm and dry clothes on right now. Do not ever go around the barricade if for example SD closes the interstate in your face. Stay put. Call dispatch and update the appointment time.

Finally but not last. If the temperature is 32 or colder and you see what you think is liquid water on the pavement... it's not liquid. It's ice or worse, black ice. Take your time. It is also not wise to be the fastest truck on the highway, particularly out west. If everyone else is moving at 15, what you should be doing is moving at 20 or less with them.

With specific tractors I can take on deep snow. But in my later years one foot or more is enough to call it a night. Tomorrow is a new day. Generally when there is snow or ice on the ground, I turn into a day time driver. It's only somewhat better than trying to run at night.

Ice in the south is a real problem. Mississippi for example will put down a foot of sand on her bridges everywhere. You cross those at walking speed making sure no cars are next to you (Your trailer will slide and slowly crush anyone between your rig and rails...) It's less of a problem in Wyoming.

Sometimes routing makes the difference. For example if there is a bad winter storm affecting the midatlantic states, I would run the pike instead of 68 or 80 the pike is or was at one time a better maintained road in times of storms. That few dollars you toss into tolls is not that expensive against potentially calling out a tow truck on one of the other roads.

The Net is full of information pretty much anywhere you care to go today online. DOT in each state etc. Many have real time cameras and measurements for various routes. I recall last year we had a discussion about the 84 in Dalles Oregon, that is prone to icing really badly being in a valley by a river. Whereas you might bypass it using a US Highway to get to 5 even though it might have deep snow in spots. Better to dance with the devil you know than to try one you don't.

 

I have 7 years experience on ice, with a straight truck. I always want to learn more. I appreciate the thought in this thread.

One) Ice is a problem above about 20 degrees. That's when it's melting. Serious problem. When it's colder. Ice ain't no big deal. Yes, drive slower. But it isn't bad. I'll take 20 below on top of ice any day.

Two) Make sure your tires have good siping. Especially your steer tires.

Three) You can still slide with chains. They aren't a magic fix all. And chains don't last that long on a heavy truck. You will wear them. Break them. Try to use when you have to only.

 

Ice when wet is really tough. Even a morning fog will slick up ice. What you want is dry or old ice where it's sort of .. granular like a cat's rough sandpaper tongue licking you. That's the best ice if you want to roll on ice.

I spent too much time on ice in my time, I was usually the one rolling in half the mississippi trying to get loaded during ice storms. Im damaged now mentally due to that kind of PTSD stress. Ive had times where the truck will be sitting on wet ice and the wind would be blowing it around, a fraction of a inch with each gust.

Chains are not a magic, you are so right. I had a set of austrian ice chains for my old quad cab and they did well in my area. But I find that they are limited when the ice is really wet. You can so tear them up if you exceed the speed or rotate the wheel too fast. I really hate to see a couple hundred dollar set go CLINK! SNAP! because I had a little heavy foot. What a waste.

 

You're braver than I. I don't fool around with ice storms. I can sure understand the PTSD. You're not kidding.
Here's a picture of an antenna on a pickup. This was after a night of ice fog. My day lasted an hour, at most. Had to try though.

 

Is the correct term Rine Ice? Or Rime? That's rare, generated when it's about say 18 degrees and a good stiff wind. What you got there on that picture is awesome awesome awesome.

It also tells me to stay the eff off the road today if I saw that....

Yes I was kind of brave as you put it but thinking back boy was I stupid.... Some of the loads Ive had with the abuse suffered at dispatch for the sake of a few dollars that could have waited until the sun came up... and another appointment date and time... you wonder why sometimes I seem to want to kill a dispatcher.

 

When it starts to ice , it's hard to tell sometimes but you can fell the steering get lighter if your used to your truck .
I'm not suggesting this but I'll give it throttle and see if the drives slip to tell how icy it is , you'll usually see ice form on the sides of the road first and your mirrors or the corners of your windshield , bridges and overpasses,then the travel lanes .
But not always , sometimes you just come up on ice with no real warning , a good dash thermometer helps

 

Rhime ice. Mountain climbing during an icing fog will create fantastic amounts of "ice" the consistency of soufle. On a ridge you lay down and belly crawl when you can, plunging your ice axe all the way to hard rock.

On road that ice can be really good, with sharp crystalline structure for traction, or really bad, with freezing mirrors and zero visibility.