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Cummins isx 2011 getting warm

Discussion in 'Trucks [ Eighteen Wheelers ]' started by Alex1990, Nov 25, 2017.

Page 1 of 2
  1. Nov 25, 2017 #1
    Alex1990

    Alex1990 Bobtail Member

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    Hello guys I just did overhaul on my 2011 Cummins ISX, the engine seems to run fine but it is not cooling well at idle (we usually run idle speeds around 800 rpm's). Haven't taken it out to the streets or on any loads yet.

    The temperature climbs pretty slow . When it gets warmed up, idle temperatures climb to about 200-210 aswell and then the fan kicks in and it drops the temp. down to 180-190 where is supposedly should be right?

    Being that the fan helps drop temperature, iassume there is nothing wrong with it or the fan clutch or belt, etc. During our repairs we replaced all gaskets, orings, cylinders head , oil cooler , oil pump, thermostats , pistons , crankshaft ,radiator, water pump etc .So basically complete overhaul was done .No water leaks, no oil leaks.
    Truck is International Prostar 2011, I’m just so tired of trying to find out what is wrong, have no money, and no time to waste on this truck.
    Do you guys suspect that the issue here is with the water pump(maybe was installed wrong) aswell or are there anyother things i should check or suspect to be the cause of the temperature climb?

    Any comments or suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks.
     
    Alex1990, Nov 25, 2017
    Alex1990, Nov 25, 2017
    #1
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  3. Nov 25, 2017 #2
    baha

    baha Road Train Member

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    Are the thermo/stats new,Did they replace pistons and liners or just the pistons and new rings on the rebuild? After a short trip with a loaded trailer then back to shop for a ck. up for anything that needs fixing before 1st trip!
     
    baha, Nov 25, 2017
    baha, Nov 25, 2017
    #2
  4. Nov 25, 2017 #3
    cmrdev

    cmrdev Medium Load Member

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    Oct 13, 2017
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    Yeah I don’t see any mention of new thermostats. Maybe partially stuck closed. I mean I really don’t see what else it could be being since you replaced radiator and water pump. Maybe you still have air in the system
     
    cmrdev, Nov 25, 2017
    cmrdev, Nov 25, 2017
    #3
  5. Nov 25, 2017 #4
    Alex1990

    Alex1990 Bobtail Member

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    Jun 20, 2015
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    Everything is new , like I mentioned before, I basically a new engine with new cooling system.
     
    Alex1990, Nov 25, 2017
    Alex1990, Nov 25, 2017
    #4
  7. Nov 25, 2017 #5
    Alex1990

    Alex1990 Bobtail Member

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    Jun 20, 2015
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    How to check air in the system ? I completely squeezed, and I don’t feel comfortable to drive because I don’t have a manual button to put fan on
     
    Alex1990, Nov 25, 2017
    Alex1990, Nov 25, 2017
    #5
  8. Nov 25, 2017 #6
    cmrdev

    cmrdev Medium Load Member

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    Oct 13, 2017
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    I’m not sure how to get all the air out in these trucks buddy. I know in a car if your having problems you can jack the front all the way up in the air. Someone will soon chime in this thread and shed some light on it.
     
    cmrdev, Nov 25, 2017
    cmrdev, Nov 25, 2017
    #6
  9. Nov 25, 2017 #7
    Largecar359

    Largecar359 Road Train Member

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    Run it with the cap off. And slightly overfill the radiator. Let it idle, have the thermostat open and fan come on. Air will work its way out the open top. This will get any big air pockets out. They can't work their way out if the system is under pressure.
     
    Largecar359, Nov 25, 2017
    Largecar359, Nov 25, 2017
    #7
  10. Nov 25, 2017 #8
    bjytech

    bjytech Light Load Member

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    Nov 9, 2013
    Ohio
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    Temps all sound perfectly normal for a ISX , unless the thermostats were changed out for the 180* option it will have 200* thermostats in it, and on ISX the fan is set to come on at 210*.
    Take the truck out and run it to see what it does(even better with a load on it) it needs to be run good and get heat built in it to get the rings and everything seated right and to see if there really is a issue.
    Any air in the system will work its way out to the coolant reservoir whether the cap is on or not.
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2017
    bjytech, Nov 25, 2017
    bjytech, Nov 25, 2017
    #8
    Andreybanyuk and magoo68 Thank this.
  11. Nov 25, 2017 #9
    Largecar359

    Largecar359 Road Train Member

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    Yeah if there's no cap on radiator even better, just run it.
     
    Largecar359, Nov 25, 2017
    Largecar359, Nov 25, 2017
    #9
  12. Nov 25, 2017 #10
    Heavyd

    Heavyd Road Train Member

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    Like mentioned, those temps are normal. Fan comes on at 207 and off at around 188. Also like mentioned, to get all air out, yes, leave the rad cap off and run it to operating temp, all air should be burped out by then. Sounds like everything is working. If the rad wasn't cooling it would not drop in temp when the fan comes on. Once you are happy with the coolant level, put your cap back on and run it at 1600 or higher and make sure the fan cycles normally and temps stay between 210 and 190. Then take it for short road test. Watch your temps and pull over if it climbs past 220. I think you'll be fine though.
     
    Heavyd, Nov 25, 2017
    Heavyd, Nov 25, 2017
    #10
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