Thoughts

2008 NO NO NO NO NO
first generation dpf trucks were nightmares.
2006 is a much safer buy.
Neither is "priced to move" for the asking price listed..

No sleeper required for your operation?

 

My first post disappeared? Go with the International with the Cummins. If it has the CM-870, that is a very stout motor and will easily go 1 million miles plus. The 2008 Detroit? RUN! DPF!

If that International has the CM-870, it does have an EGR valve on it, but that motor is easily tuned and if done properly is reliable and good on fuel if you know how to drive it. The rest of the truck, that is up to you and your needs.

Also, you can go to eBay and pick up an Inline 5 or 6 reader and handle your own diagnostics, other than the cab controller, which is a real money saver if something is acting up in the motor. International, a no brainer.

Offer them $20,000 and go from there.

 

This is thread number two on the same subject. The Moderators should merge em before it gets big.

The Freightliner as I stated before at 35K is a tad expensive and a Midroof sleeper is a better addition considering the HOS and ELD situation.

 

Yeah that is weird jt2.

Warranty on a truck that old is non existent. Those trucks should be more in the 15-20 $ range. Expect to repair/replace it piece by piece. You can do well with an old truck if you are mechanically inclined at all.

 

No, avoid the warranty. Buy tools instead and that Inline Reader off eBay, the one shipped from Hong Kong. That is the one most of us Cummins owners have. I have the Inline 5 reader, it works when I need it on my 2008 CM-871.

And if you go with the International, you honestly should not have many issues with it in regards to the motor. Do you have any history on it? I would do the overhead and check the oil pressure. If the oil pressure is running 35 or below, you more than likely will need new bearings rolled in on the crank, roughly $1,200.00

Also the vibration damper, if original that will need replaced to, they have a shelf life of 500,000 miles and in time the viscous fluid in them dries out. Put that on your list, roughly $600 for an OEM + install.

Mechanically there is not much more to them, change the oil every 12 - 15,000 miles. Run some 85-90 GL4 Gear oil, a gallon an oil change and refresh the coolant and thermostat. I would also check the CAC, have it pressure tested. If the original I would replace that too, they get old and worn, and will affect your fuel economy.

That is just off of the top of my head. Pop the top on the motor and really inspect the cams and rollers, that I would do.