I can not understand the thinking on super singles, every skinny tire I ever had has cut through the snow or rain while giving traction, when I tried them fat tires because they were cool I hydroplaned so much I tore those back off and decided not to be cool. Then having nothing beside when things go south or bad seems like a disaster waiting to happen.
Chains broke while driving.
Discussion in 'Questions From New Drivers' started by chmpbt, Dec 27, 2017.
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driverdriver, Rickp, Grubby and 3 others Thank this.
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As far as chains go we've been using Pewags for several years. They're expensive but they last better than anything else we've tried.Last edited: Dec 27, 2017
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Quality snow chains never break from being to tight. Chinesium?
You most likely have a twist bound and broke the chain. Don't store them right, and singles, super or not, will twist up bind and break. Many drivers don't make the effort to untwist them before putting them on.Dan.S, stayinback and Oxbow Thank this. -
Chains? Snow? Ice?
You fellars keep on talking dirty and I will be forced to report y'all.Sirscrapntruckalot, Blackshack46, Grubby and 1 other person Thank this. -
This thread makes me all warm and fuzzy feelin, just cause I aint gotta throw iron in the miserable cold snow!
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Apply the bungies *between* the crosslinks. If you put the bungie *in line* with the cross links the chances of a chain breaking go astronomical.
chmpbt Thanks this. -
Assuming that they are not twisted speed is the biggest problem. Getting and keeping them tight is next.
It is hard to run 25 mph for 50 miles, but chains just won't last long at higher speeds. As previously mentioned, most of the time chains are required one ends up running on bare roads some, and the beating of the cross links against the pavement causes tremendous wear on the metal. Add loose chains and the wear is accelerated.
In my opinion you cannot get chains too tight.chmpbt, Hammer166 and stayinback Thank this. -
- Keep them tight, not flopping around, and avoid spinning them if you can help it. And hook your tails down so they don't bust up your fenders.
- Once you have the chains on the tire and you are ready to fasten the hooks, make sure you tug and shake the chains around a bit. Sometimes you'll have links that are bound up on each other or twisted or caught and they won't shift when you tighten them up but as soon as you hit the roads they straighten out and now you have loose chains.
- Check them for signs of wear after use and when they do wear down either toss them or replace the worn parts. Once they start wearing they will continue to wear down quicker.
- Keep your speed down if you can. Anything over 20 - 25 mph on most roads makes short work of chains.
- This is debatable but I try to run them on a cushion of snow instead of bare road when possible/practical. On flats where one lane is plowed I'll run in the non-plowed lane if I'm chained up as long as it is safe to do so, before running them on bare road.
- Store them on a chain hanger if you have one so you can keep them dressed and easy to put on. I hate pulling out chains that are in a pile or bag. It turns a 10 minute job into an hour job fighting tangled chains. -
Oxbow Thanks this.
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Did you exceed 20-30mph?
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